June 12, 2010

San Francisco, Tai Pei, Thailand, and soon Laos!

A  lot has happened in the past two days. Last night, I decided to spend the few remaining hours to get as much of the San Francisco scene as possible by taking my first ever visit to Chinatown.

Chinatown – one of those places I always see and hear about on the media, yet one of the places I’ve never been too……..until now!

It was great seeing all the different boutiques and gift stores in Chinatown. While venturing further into the neighborhood, I spotted these two Chinese models posing in the middle of the street in front of an entourage of flashing cameramen. I couldn’t help but take some pictures as well. Hahaha.

After getting done exploring all of Chinatown, I headed back to the hotel to get ready to head to the airport with Vinya for my 13 hr flight to Taiwan.

And now… here I am – waiting at my gate to depart to Bangkok! Also, I’m sitting on the floor here laughing at Toby because her laptop can’t connect to the internet  ;)

June 11, 2010

Orientation

Photo on 2010-06-11 at 18.58I’m finally in San Francisco which means that Laos is just around the corner! Although this has been a tiresome day, it was great to finally meet the other SAILers and a couple SAILers from last summer. At our orientation, we discussed what we could expect in Laos and to experience everything with an open mind. We also had the chance to check out the Civc Center. Ai Vinya pointed out some of the buildings that were in the area while many a dramatic scenes unfolded around us.  The trip to Laos is going to be great.  The other SAILers seem like a fun bunch, an eager group ready for the learning and fun to begin. I can’t wait to come back a little darker, a little thinner, and whole lot more knowledgeable!

June 11, 2010

Leaving On A Jet Plane

“All my bags are packed and I’m ready to go…”

Today has been a full day of pre-departure orientation. It’s been nice to meet everyone and hear some stories from a few of last years SAILers. They have given us a lot of good information, but I think I will take their advice and go into this program with no expectations. This program will end up being everything I make of it. I am excited to share my experiences via this blog and look forward to everyone’s comments as a way to stay connected with my friends and family during this program.

The day has finally arrived. Sack and I are leaving on a jet plane tonight for Thailand. We are staying in Bangkok for the night and have the following day to explore before we meet up with the other two SAILers and leave for Laos.

“Cause I’m leavin’ on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again.”

lao_me

June 11, 2010

San Francisco today… Laos tomorrow

2010 SAILers, L to R: Toby, Phouthasack, Ryan, and Akarath.

2010 SAILers, L to R: Toby, Phouthasack, Ryan, and Akarath.

In the past three years I’ve studied Laos: reading, meeting people and enrolling in graduate school. Now all of that is about to go out the window. Tomorrow night (technically Sunday morning) I will begin my travel to Laos, which I have never visited before… and I am so excited! Finally I will actually meet the people and country that until now I have only read or heard about.

I have many hopes for this trip. Increasing my proficiency and understanding of Lao language is number one on my list. Working for a volunteer organization and being involved in the community is a close second. I also hope to engage people I meet on the subject I am passionate about, Lao history. I am eager to meet all of the working Lao historians at the National University and the international scholars at the third International Lao Studies Conference. However I know that the trip has so much more to offer than these goals. I expect to be surprised.

I am writing this from the orientation at the Center for Lao Studies’ office and it is a beautiful day in the city of San Francisco today. Being here, with my wife Natalie about to embark on this great journey is as surreal as it is sublime!

June 11, 2010

The Day Before the Beginning

So, here I am in San Francisco. I’m happy I finally got my passport and now I am for sure able to go to Laos.

Victory Screech! Anyways… I really don’t have a whole lot to say except I’m waiting for this adventure to start already.

The lucky thing for Toby and I are spending a day in Bangkok, more formerly known over there as the city of angels.

I like Bangkok. Maybe that’s just because I always listen to Thai music all the time.

As of right now, I’m just trying not to set my expectations too high, but also doubt anything good is going to happen. I’m just going to take it all in one day at a time.

But for certain, this trip will be unforgettable in a way that will make you smile – like me and Vinya.

Huh? Huh? Huh? Huh?

June 1, 2010

Center for Lao Studies’ Summer Study Abroad in Laos (SAIL)

sail.postcard.2

August 9, 2009

Go SAILers!

SAILers in their student uniform and their Achaans (teachers) on a field trip.

SAILers in their student uniform with their Achaans (teachers) on a class fieldtrip. (L to R: Yaengsaeng, Sandra, Vatsana, Brandin, Amy, Samantha, Achaan Viengsavanh, Achaan Bounmy, and Eileen)

 

August 8, 2009

SAILers sail home with lasting memories

Like everyone else, I can’t believe our trip is over. We had a tearful goodbye at the airport as 5 of the SAILers boarded a 7:30 AM flight for Thailand, where they will be met by two of the Center for Lao Studies’ advisory board members, Dr. Varisa and Dr. Somsonge, who have offered to show them around before they leave on the 9th. Although most of the group made it a late night in order to see their friends one last time (and some sacrificed a significant amount of sleep for it!), they were still met with friends early in the morning. Just to prove what an impact this group has had on people here! And I must say, the Lao never fail to give a proper goodbye — always giving gifts, fitting in a baci if possible, and making the effort to see people off at the airport. Among those saying goodbye to the SAILers was Amy and I, who will stay longer to enjoy a little more of the country.

The last week was filled with lots of activities. Both Lao classes had final tests, and I’m happy to say all SAILers did very well! On Thursday we had our official graduation with all our teachers, as well as Ginny, the co-director of LAC, were there to present certificates and transcripts to the SAILers. Achaan Bounmy commented that he had to scramble to create supplemental lessons for the beginning level class because they learned faster than he expected. Ginny encouraged the students to correct any misconceptions Americans have about Laos by sharing her virtues and peaceful atmosphere. Achaan Viengsavanh made special dishes for us — steamed fish in banana leaves and her famous fried ribs! We all brought food and shared memories of our 8-week journey.

Between buying scarves at Saoban handicrafts (which were woven by the villagers at our homestay), spending time with friends and relatives, and arranging a very successful farewell party for our LAC friends, complete with activities (such as seeing who could stuff the most Lao meatballs into one’s mouth) arranged by party-organizer extraordinaire Sandra, we also had time to have a last lunch together just with each other. I asked SAILers to comment on some of the highlights of the program, and Brandin claimed that seeing his relatives on a brief trip to Pakse was very special. Another SAILer commented that “just being in Laos” was a highlight, and that if the SAIL program hadn’t existed, they wouldn’t have come to Laos.

So my parting words as SAIL trip leader are that I believe the program reached its objectives of providing an experience for Lao-Americans and those interested in Lao culture to really engage with the Lao people (both in and out of school), experience both city and country life, learn about the country’s history and culture from both the Lao and expats living here, push themselves to adapt to ways of a life foreign to their own, (even when frustrating), and enjoy the Lao virtue of “mak muan” (having fun/enjoying life). It allowed an opportunity for the younger SAILers to have their first overseas experience where they could learn to be independent while learning about Lao culture at the same time, and opened doors to new relationships and family bonds for those who had felt something missing in their lives.

I’m so proud of this inaugural group for jumping right in and being so enthusiastic about experiencing all things Lao. They not only explored the culture on their own, but were amazing ambassadors for both the SAIL program and the U.S! Yaeng never hesitated to speak eloquently about the SAIL program whether in interviews, or at events, whenever asked. Vatsana’s intellectural curiosity allowed the group to probe deeper into the meaning behind Lao behaviors and customs. Sandra was a shining light who showed how fun-loving and generous Americans could be. Brandin’s experience here has led him to explore work opportunities with the State Department or U.S. Embassy, and I know he would be an amazingly culturally-sensitive representative. Amy was an example of how a “khon Amelika sot sot” (full-blooded American) could embrace the culture and language so whole-heartedly, always pushing those around her to only speak Lao! And Eileen, our youth representative, was never seen without a sinh, and completed the LAC uniform by buying an official school sinh! Cutural adaptation at its best!

What a wonderful group to kick-off this unique program. I hope they will continue to be spokespeople for the program, since I know their Lao tales and amazing insights will motivate those considering this program to participate next year! Thank you SAILers for an AMAZING 8 weeks. Thank your for making my job so easy and enjoyable, and enriching my second trip back to Laos.

August 8, 2009

Goodbye…

…fellow SAILers! I can’t believe that today is our last day together in the country of Laos. Each of you has contributed so much to my fabulous experience through the SAIL program.  So used to seeing you every day, I am not sure what I am going to do without you! I will be staying in Laos for three more weeks, and I am very sad that I will not have you around!

I am very excited to stay in Laos longer than originally intended. Although I am looking forward to returning to the United States, I am not ready to leave yet! There is still a lot for me to learn, see and experience here!

One significant factor that went into my decision to stay in Laos longer was because I want to study Lao language as much as I can before I go back to the U.S. There are very limited opportunities to study Lao language in the U.S, not to mention it is hard to fit anything in on top of being a full-time student with a part time job! By staying in Laos an extra couple of weeks before school starts, I hope to get a better grasp of the language so that I can study on my own when I return to the States!

Another great thing about staying in Laos is that I will have time to explore the country a little more. Next week I am very excited to travel to Xieng Khouang with Samantha! Seeing the Plain of Jars is something I have wanted to do for a while, and I am very excited to go! I also plan to stay outside of downtown Vientiane.

The most significant factor that contributed to my decision to stay in Laos, however, was to have new experiences. Since all the other SAILers will be leaving tomorrow (except Samantha, who will stay another week), I will be here- alone! This will be very interesting because it will really force me to depend on my own Lao language skills to get around! I will also be staying part of the time at a house with a family, which will be a great Lao immersion experience. This will really help me learn the language even faster!

I just want to thank you SAILers again for the wonderful experience! I am going to have to keep myself very busy for the next three weeks so I don’t get too lonely when I think about you! Good luck, keep in touch, and practice your Lao!

August 8, 2009

Making a Complete Circle

The day we have all dreaded has finally arrived and although we knew it would come, I don’t think any of us are completely ready for it.  At first, two months seemed like it would be just the right amount of time, but I no longer feel that way.  Two months have come and gone in what seems like a blink of an eye.  I feel like I am just starting to understand mother Laos, but I still have so much more to learn from her, I wish I had more time.  Even though I am leaving Laos physically, my heart and mind will always be with her.  I will not say good-bye because I know I will be back again whether it be for work or leisure. 

This experience is definitely one that I will never forget.  Everything from going to classes, meeting new friends, exploring the city and visiting my family in the village where I was born have been journeys filled with learning and excitement.  The emotions that I have felt while I was here have been only good ones and not enough words can describe the happiness that I have found here.  The Lao culture and people have welcomed me home with open arms and if possible, I hope everyone will one day get the opportunity to visit this wonderful country.  I am sad to leave, but excited that I will have the chance to share my experience with others once I get back to the States so that maybe I can spark some interest in others to learn about Laos.  I hope everyone that I had the pleasure meeting and/or working with knows how appreciative I am for them because they are the ones who have made my trip here unforgettable.  I can’t wait for my next visit because now I have even more family and friends here than I started out with.

August 4, 2009

Last Weekend in Laos

We girl SAILers just spent the best last weekend at a home-stay in the countryside while Brandin went to visit his family in Pakse. Again the small up start organization PADETC provided us the opportunity to participate in this wonderful program. We were driven out to the countryside, about 2-3 hours out of town to a small textile village. We met these amazing Lao women who worked together in the same village producing their own dyes and we were warmly greeted and had to sing a welcome song in Lao which was very cute and charming. After that, we were divided up and “adopted” by house mothers. Some of us had two to three Lao mothers. I had Mother Mai. She was very sweet, shy and soft spoken.

We were split up into groups of two because each group would make our own organic dyes. Samantha and I were to produce dye from the trunk of the Jack fruit tree. We had to chop up pieces of the tree trunk with this huge machete and put the pieces into to a large pot to boil. We didn’t know what color it would yield, but after 25 minutes, we had a golden yellow and were very excited. We learned to boil the silk, wash and rinse it before soaking it in the natural dye we had just made. We then dyed our thread of silk and let it dry while we ate. After lunch, we took our bundles of colored thread and spoon it onto a spool and placed it in to the shuttle. Then we were taught the art of the maneuvering the loom. It was so much fun and yet so hard. Some of us took to it like fish to water, others of us had some challenges, but over all, everyone truly enjoyed the experience. It was hard work and very time consuming. A long roll of fabric that they would sell to the market was roughly 35,000kip or about $4.00US. I can certainly appreciate the fabrics I had recently purchased.

Later that evening, we feasted with the Lao women and celebrated our time together. We drank a special kind of “dry” Lao wine made from rice and rice husk. We had to add water and beer to it and I have to say, it was delicious!!! We eventually retired to “our” mother’s homes to sleep so that we could wake up at 5:00AM in the morning to make the rice, feed the animals and go to the Wat to give alms to the monks. Mother Mai’s house was a small bamboo house. I climbed up three make-shift ladders leading into the house which opened to a one room house that housed 5 people. The floors were made with long bamboo and split bamboo were laid on top to cover the floor. I was quite hesitant because there were many holes in the floor and the floors rolled and moved. I thought my feet were going to go through the floor board. Off to one side, was a small kitchen where they cooked rice, the size of a closet with no windows. We were surrounded by chickens, cows, ducks and other woodsy creatures on the outside. It was a fascinating experience but I was also filled with trepidation. They rolled out a bed and found that I had two bed fellows. I was relieved when they asked me if I wanted to sleep under a mosquito net and I eagerly answered yes. I could her the frogs, crickets, chickens, cows, and ducks outside and yet I sleep well. I like the sounds of the woods and I found it very soothing. I had a difficult time with the smell. They would burn charcoal with tire rubber and it would burn my nose and throat making it very difficult for me to breath and sleep. Other than that, it was a nice stay over and I know how lucky and blessed my life has been.

The next day we went to another village about 1-2 hours away where we made Lao baskets. It was also very fun and again, so much work and so much patience were required. I think it would have been even better had we had more time and had a longer stay rather than such short visits. We made many new friends and truly enjoyed ourselves. We hope to keep in touch with our new found friends and we will sadly say farewell to our 2nd home this Friday.

July 31, 2009

SAILers Get Religion

This was a week of new cultural insights. In one of our weekly meetings, some SAILers had expressed a desire to delve deeper into the cultural subtleties of the Lao people. Why are there different ways to “nop?” Why do the designs on some sinhs mean? Although these are questions that cannot easily be answered in a short course, and may require expert opinion, I have tried to do my best to help the SAILers find some answers. My plans coincided nicely with the absence of the professor of the Lao History & Culture class, who had to travel to Cambodia for the week. In her absence I could find guest speakers and opportunities to augment their regular learning.

The first speaker I found was Charles Alton, an agriculturalist by trade, but ethnic minority enthusiast at heart. I had little time to prepare him for the talk, but he quickly put together a presentation of the four main ethno-linguistic groups in Laos (most of which lived outside Vientiane). Although I had previous knowledge of these groups from having lived here, most of the SAILers did not. Charles gave some history of their migration to Laos, general characteristics of the groups, and some background on their animistic beliefs. He especially held our attention when explaining the difference between house spirits (or “pii”) and those living in animate objects (trees, rivers, etc.). It’s important for these ethnic groups to talk to, and constantly appease these spirits, lest they anger them and bring problems onto themselves and their families. He said one danger was the fact that those working on development projects in these areas, and who don’t respect these animistic traditions, can create lots of unnecessary tension between themselves and villagers. There should probably be a “Pii Handbook” readily available for all those intending to work with these communities!

To round out the religious discussion, the group paid a visit to Wat Ongteu in central Vientiane. The Wat is well-known because of its Sangha College. When we arrived, we were greeted by one of the Head monks of the school, as well as other Buddhist scholars. I loved that the discussion was an open forum, where we could pose any question we wanted. We covered everything from the color of their robes to whether it’s a violation of the precepts to smoke (which created a little debate among the monks) to the role of women in the temple. But the cultural bonus the SAILers received was spending time with the monks in their territory, seeing how they interacted with us and each other, and even use computers during the discussion. The monks were incredibly gracious to us and very enthusiastic about our visit. “If you have time, please come back and visit! And if you have any questions, you can email us!” Buddhism in the modern age. Before we departed, they asked to take pictures with us, and even said it was OK to stand. But the SAILers, ever culturally-conscious, kneeled down in front of the monks. Maybe they didn’t have much to learn after all!

Our temple trip occurred on the same day as a scheduled class field trip to That Luang. There, the Buddhist ceremonies were brought to life for us by our Achaans. With Yaeng acting as interpreter for those few words (ha!) the SAILers couldn’t catch, we learned how gold bars inscribed with Buddhist writings were placed all around the stupa, but were taken by the Siamese (Thais) when they invaded Laos. We learned that the parts of the stupa that curved outwards were Lotus flowers, and that during the That Luang festival, the Lao walked around the stupa 3 times — once for the Buddha, once for the Dhamma, and once for the Sangha. I had done this myself years ago, but not until today did I know why! After this week, I am confident that the SAILers have deepened their knowledge of an extremely important aspect of Lao culture in a comprehensive way. They heard from a foreign researcher, Lao monks and their English interpreters, and Lao teachers. I’d say this exceeded any classroom lesson they could’ve gotten!

July 31, 2009

A Little Frustration and Kids

When I speak with the people I am close to here in Laos, sometimes I feel like I am a pro at Lao language: I can understand what they are saying and can talk easily with them. Other times, I feel as though I have never studied Lao in my life! Especially when I am with a larger group of people, there are times when I cannot even pick out the words I know already. Once I slip out of a conversation in a situation like this, it is easy for me to zone out and think about other things.

This can be a little disheartening at times, since I would really like to be able to speak Lao well. It can also make me a little uncomfortable since I don’t really know what exactly is going on. When I am uncomfortable or nervous, then it becomes hard for me to respond when people talk to me! One of my goals is to become more comfortable in larger group settings (when people only speak Lao of course!). I am trying to push myself out of my comfort zone and into this sort of setting. This weekend, actually we will be going on a homestay. This will be a really great opportunity for me to have some complete immersion experience! I just hope I can say what I need to!

I am not sure why, but the children in Laos are just adorable to me! Volunteering at a school, I am lucky to see many throughout the week. I just want to play with them and hope they will help me practice my Lao! Unfortunately for me, the kids here are so shy, and I mean shy. Many a time I try say “hello” to the children, and I am lucky if they even say “sabaydii” back. That’s why I was so surprised when I was sitting reading at Patouxay (Victory Monument) and a little girl walked right up to me. We started talking a bit and then I began to help her with her quest for little snails (I’ve never seen snails before coming to Laos). I was very happy to chat with her and even learned how to say the name of some bugs in Lao.

At Donkoi, a few of the children are starting to warm up to me, too. On Monday I played “Simon Says” (Thevada Vao) with the youngsters. At first, they were too shy to pair up with me when Simon told us to get into groups of two. Soon the kids didn’t mind me though! There is even one girl who visits me every time in the craft room. Even the smallest interaction with children here in Vientiane really makes me so happy!

Something interesting about colloquial Lao: The first time the girl at Donkoi saw me, she called me “Falang.” Although in Lao this actually means French, many people use this word to refer to foreigners.

July 31, 2009

Saying Goodbye is always HARD!

Today was my last day at volunteering and I have to say it was a more touching departure than I would have expected it to be.  I have really enjoyed my time at Sethathirath Hospital in their Pediatrics Ward.  I have met a lot of nice, hardworking doctors, nurses and medical students and after saying goodbye to them today, it solidified my hopes of coming back to work in Laos.  Not many would find the hospital a place to feel like a second home, but I did.  Everyone that I had the pleasure of working with made me feel like I was one of their own, even though I had only been there for such a short time.  There was even something special about the patients and their families.  There was a kind of warmth shared between them that I don’t see too often.  I also got the opportunity to witness the patience and respect that the staff and patients had for one another.  I know this has a lot to do with the Lao culture, which makes people fall in love with it whenever they are here.  Before I left, we all took pictures and everyone told me they hoped that I would return to visit, if not to work, and wished me a safe trip home.  To my surprise, the staff presented me with departing gifts, which made me feel as happy as a little girl getting her top listed gift for Christmas.  I can’t believe they took the time out for me.  As I felt when I visited my family last week, I should be the one offering gifts because they are the ones who had invited me into their home and allowed me to learn beside them.  There is no gift that I could ever offer to express my gratitude to them for such a life learning experience.

July 31, 2009

Proud to be Indentified as Lao

We SAILers are coming into the last stretch of our grand adventure in the beautiful country of Laos. We are all full of anticipation of our return, yet we feel a great sense of sadness in the thought of our inevitable departure back to the USA. We have all grown to love our new homeland and as for me I have come full circle, to understanding and feeling a sense of gratitude to my parents for encouraging and at times “enforcing” the Lao culture upon me when I was younger. For so long I had this other identity in the shadow that I knew existed and I was often reminded in the mirror or when a stranger would ask me, “Where are you from?” In the past, I had always felt as if I was a fraud. Although I looked Lao, (although it is now debatable since my arrival here), and I’ve had a lot of exposure to my culture and spoke Lao at home, I never really fully understood nor appreciated the little subtleties of being Lao. I have realized that it is not just what you do, or how you speak, or what you eat. It is a way of life, how one lives one life in a way that is simple, at peace and in harmony within yourself and your lot in life. With all the historical tragedy that befell Laos for centuries, there is no sense of bitterness, ego, or aggression from the Lao people. They are stoic in their hardships, gentle in their manners, generous with their possessions, enthusiatistic in their celebrations, reverand in their worship, and eager for the recognition they rightly deserve in the world. It is remarkable to see how the people of Laos go about their daily routines with easy smiles and with pride and in their children. Transactions have a personal touch with a bit of curiosity and giggles to foreigners. Vices and offenses are quickly and subtley reconcilliated and loosing face is averted, and it is rare that one holds a grudge and dwells on the offense. Of course this account is not true for every Lao person, like all people, there are differences, however, I feel confident that most Lao people are described as such people, the kind of people I am proud to be identified as. I hope to find some Lao people in the greater Los Angeles area who will remind me of my heritage and assist me in keeping up with my Lao. Incredibly I can now write in Lao. If the economy gets worse for the teachers, I can always park myself on the Santa Monica pier and sell colorful name art in Lao!!!!