On Saturday, I visited the children again at Noi Sengsourigna’s Children’s Music and Cultural Center. They performed for myself and Phensy, a friend of mine from Milwaukee, who is visiting Laos after having attended the International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand. They were awesome! Of course, Phensy, Todd (who was also there), and I had to sing for the children. I did not disappoint with my out of tune attempt at “Nam Song See.” I think the kids liked it. Later in the evening, I was supposed to go out but that never materialized due to an unfortunate car accident (luckily no one was injured). Since I’ve been here, I’ve personally witnessed three accidents happen, and at least 10-12 aftermaths.  Vientiane has definitely changed since the last time I was here in 2000. There are so many “big cars” here now and many times carelessness and other factors have caused accidents.

Sunday, I was surprised when 2 students (and one of their sisters) from Khon Kaen University in Thailand came to visit. They were on vacation and wanted to visit Laos and well as interview a few native English speakers for a project of theirs.  I was amazed by one of the girls’ willingness to speak Lao to me when only a couple weeks ago at the conference she spoke Thai and English to me. Though she transitioned to Thai now again and I to English now and again, I thought the whole day was quite educational for all of us.  Ay Joi, another friend I’ve encountered along this journey, took all of us to Patuxay.  The last time I climbed those stairs was 16 years ago.  The whole area has changed dramatically.  The view of city was beautiful! I’m sure the view will continue to change as the city grows and continues to develop.

After this we happily returned to Vientiane – it was good to be back. I returned to my second week of studying the Tham script at the National Library. I also began learning to play the Khene, a Lao instrument which is slightly similar to a European Accordion. I am learning this much slower, but I did happen to see Dr. Gregory Green drop by to show me what good study yields! Seeing him and Aachaan Tong Suey in a Khene jam session convinced me that this is great music and a great instrument.

For the weekend Toby, Phouthasack, Natalie and I went to Luang Prabang. This place is jaw-dropping gorgeous if you can avoid the back-packers. The mountains of Northern Laos cover the landscape except for the little valley in which this royal city is nestled. We only had two days, but we made the most of them, visiting the old Royal Palace (now a “museum”), Mt. Phu Si which offered a view of the entire city, and Wat Xieng Thong which is the most beautiful wat I have seen in Laos. We also found time to take a boat ride to the incredible Ting caves which house a number of Buddhist statues and shrines. All in all it was a great trip!

SAILers 2010 taking photo with the CLS Executive Director at the conference room

Instead of having classes in Vientiane, The SAILers spent 4 days in the week 5 of their SAIL program to participate in the 3rd International Conference on Laos Studies at Khon Kaen, Thailand which was held on 14th to 16th of July. This is a significant event for them and for myself as well. For us all, it’s a valuable experience having attended such great conference. Beside the group of SAILers, there were more than twenty participants from Laos going to join the conference, among them were professors from the National University of Laos (NUOL) who were invited and sponsored by the Center for Lao Studies, some interested individuals and SAILers’ friends. In fact, this conference is the gathering of scholars and academic experts in different fields of knowledge and wisdom. The participants have wide range of choice to listen to the topics they are interested in.

To me, it is a great conference I ever have attended. Thanks for the host organizers, especially the Center For Laos Studies for giving me an opportunity to experience this big event. I feel I have gained a lot of new knowledge and also have consolidated some knowledge I had previously learned about it many years ago.

I had listened to quite many topics. such as  Phra Lak Phra Lam (Lao and Isan-Ramayana); Land concession and rubber plantation in the north of Laos, Land use planning; Cash economy and sexual practice in Laos community; the Role of FM Radios along the Lao-Thai border areas; Conflict Resolutions in the Mekong basin.

We came back to Laos in the same group that we had on the departure day, except for Dr. Vinya Sysamouth who went back home from Thailand directly. After the conference closing at 12.00 pm of 16th July, we were pick up at the conference venue (Charoen Thani Princess Hotel in the heart of Khon Kaen City) by a bus of Khon Kaen University which transferred us to the Friendship Bridge on Thai side, then we were pick up by a mini bus from Vientiane.

On the morning of July 13th, we were off to Khon Kaen for the 3rd International Conference on Lao Studies. We were fortunate enough to ride along with 12 prominent professors from the National University of Laos.  They shared stories with us while we entertained them with our singing skills.  The conference was great too. I was astounded by the different research that has been done on Laos and as Grant Evans noted, the great research yet to done. I left there thinking about the possibilities of my own research and how I could contribute.

Though we didn’t go out much in Khon Kaen, I felt like the spirit of the Lao people of Isan at the conference–in the warm smiles and hospitable gesture of the staff and volunteers.  I think I should share a certain experience I had.  While I was in Khon Kaen, I had the opportunity to do some shopping. I remembered that Dr. Vinya said that he refused to speak Thai in Isan. With that in mind, I spoke Lao to almost everyone I met and consequently shocked by their response in Thai. Dr. Vinya later explained to me that Thai was a formal language, whereas Lao was reserved for more intimate, personal “spaces” (perhaps a future topic of research). Overall, I was quite impressed by the quality of presentations, both receptions, and the comradery I always feel at these conferences. I can’t wait until 2013 in Wisconsin!

A lot has happened in the past week that I almost forgot to write my blog! Last week was the Third International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand and I must say that it was an experience I’ll never forget. It was so interesting to see so many people from different countries whose sole purpose was focused on the topic of Lao studies! Before even the first one was even held, I honestly thought that nobody really cared about Lao Studies; but now I can rest assured. After attending the conference I almost am thinking of maybe getting some sort of degree in Southeast Asian studies – specifically about Lao.

Other than that I am very glad to be in Laos right now and I am learning so much about the language. I am also glad to see that my reading has improved better than I had expected! I am missing all of my cousins from the Vieng and Pakse very much on account of I don’t get to see them as often as before. I love how I can converse in Lao with them and they are more than willing to help me out with any grammatical mistakes that I make. I am excited to say that this week I will be leaving for Luang Prabang. Then the following week I’ll be going to see the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khouang and maybe Vang Vieng on the side if I can.

When marking down the remaining days I have left in Laos I realized that I only have three weeks left here! I wish I could stay here longer… I really don’t want to go back because I’ll really miss my cousins and also I need to learn so much more about this country and the way of life here.

With a parting note I will say bring an umbrella! When it rains in Laos, boy, does it rain hard.

Until Next Time!

Phouthasack =D

SAILers singing on the bus on their way to Khon Kaen.

Tuesday July 13^th. All the SAILers, plus 11 professors from the National University of Laos and a few friends rented a bus to go to the Third International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand. It was the first time for many of our SAILers to attend a Lao Studies conference.  I could tell that they were looking forward to meeting many of the Lao Studies scholars and to learning something new from the 140+ presenters. On the bus the SAILers were rehearsing two songs in front of a bus packed with eager listeners—Champa Muang Lao and Yen Sabay Xao Naa. They later sang the two songs at the CLS reception at the conference.

The next three days of the Lao Studies conference were full of speeches, presentations, film festival, receptions, and numerous activities. I am proud of all of our SAILers—Phouthasack, Toby, Akarath, and Ryan. They have done a wonderful job representing themselves, their community, and the SAIL program.

My trip back to Laos, even though shorter than usual, has been very meaningful and fulfilling. I cannot wait to come back home again when I visit the 2011 SAILers next year.

SAILers practicing singing "Champa Muang Lao" with their language teachers at the Lao-American College.

On July 12th I visited our SAILers during their Lao language class. I got a chance to observe the instructor’s teaching techniques and their interactions with the students. After class I spent one on one time with each instructor by giving them the opportunity to evaluate each student and also for me to share with them the students’ feedbacks. The professors genuinely wanted what’s best for the students and that they were willing to follow recommendations for improvement. As the SAIL program progress I cannot help but feel that it will only get better with each year.

In the evening I had a one on one meeting with each SAILer. It was an opportunity for them to give feedback about the SAIL program. There were a few minor suggestions here and there, but overall the SAILers were satisfied with their overall experience and were enjoying their stay in Laos.

SAILers planting rice at a Tai Daeng village.

On July 11th it was off to a day full of activities. The SAILers, the Program Leader, a few of our friends rented a van and off we go for our excursion. The first stop was a Tai Daeng village where the students got a chance to help the villagers plant rice. I certainly enjoyed getting my feet wet and dirty and watching the other SAILers struggling to place the rice stalks in the mud. We all joked that Akarath was the slowest rice planters we have ever seen.

We finally made it to the village where the students stayed at last weekend and the SAILers got an opportunity to meet with their respective host families. However, a few of the families were out in the rice fields and the SAILers did not get a chance to see them this time around. I told them that since the village is only about two hours by bus they should all take a weekend off and come up to visit them again. Hopefully they’ll take my advice seriously.

We visited the Nam Ngum Dam afterwards. I bought some delicious “som paa” (sour fish). We drove for another hour to the “Taa Ngon” where we ordered some of the most authentic Lao food I have ever tasted. On the menu were “Singers with good voice” (fried crickets), “Disco girls” (fresh water shrimps with the fixings). The shrimps were still alive and jumping in a clear glass plate that was placed over another plate to keep them from getting away. It looked like theywere dancing in a discotheque, thus the name. The shrimps kept jumping even in your mouth, yum! All the SAILers were very adventurous and tried all the dishes we ordered.  The best part of it all was the raft. We got a chance to eat our food on a raft that went up the Nam Ngum River and slowly floated back down.

After the long raft ride, we were exhausted and had to head back to the guesthouse.

Later in the evening I met with Ginny, the owner of the Lao-American College. We talked for a very long time about our collaboration and the SAIL program. I was very pleased that we are able to make the collaboration work for the second year.

Spending time with the SAILers at the Nam Ngum Dam.

On July 10^th I went to visit the SAILers in Vientiane. It has been four weeks since I sent them off at the airport in San Francisco. Even though I have been reading their blogs and communicating with their Lao language teachers, the Lao-American College staff, and the SAIL Program Leader on a regular basis, I just had to visit the students for myself.

As soon as I landed, Mr. Xuan, our SAIL Program Leader was there to greet me at the terminal. We went to a Pho restaurant for lunch at Ban Phone Keng, which was one of the best I had for awhile. At the Somneuk Guest House, where the SAILers have been staying since their arrival, I was greeted by Ryan, Akarath and Toby. Phouthasack later joined the rest of the group for our first meeting. It was so nice to see them again.

During the meeting Phouthasack was concerned about the lack of his “Laoness.” Many Lao often mistook him for a foreigner due to his appearance and his Lao language proficiency. However, as I observed Phouthasack during the next few days, both inside and outside of the classroom, I’ve noticed that his Lao has actually improved a great deal. He is now able to read and write. His vocabulary has improved and he is able to carry a conversation in Lao with the local people. I could see how it could be frustrating for a person like Phouthasack, who wants to be Lao, and not be recognized as one by the local people.  I have been visiting Laos off and on since 1994 and even though I feel this is my home, I still have a hard time convincing some people that I AM LAO. This will take time and the SAIL program is only the beginning of the journey for the SAILers.

Ryan’s Lao, our only none Lao American SAILer, has also improved tremendously. I was shocked to hear Ryan speak Lao so clear and precise in such a short period of time. Ryan and Phouthasack were in the same class and according to their language teacher, Achaan Bounmy, they have been focusing most of their time on reading and writing and it showed. Ryan was volunteering at the National Library and learning the Tham Script every morning. He was planning to take Khene lessons. I jokingly told him that he should play for us at the next Lao Studies conference in 2013.

Akarath and Toby were in the intermediate class with Achaan Hommala. Akarath already spoke some Lao before the SAIL program, but wanted to improve his reading, writing, and vocabulary. He also wanted to be able to give a presentation in Lao on his current research. Achaan Hommala was working closely with him to ensure that he would be able to accomplish his goal by the end of the SAIL program. He was volunteering at a children center where he taught English to a group of disadvantaged elementary students. I am proud of him for doing something meaningful for the Lao community and for the Lao children. In his spear time he played basketball with the other SAILers and the Lao-American College students.

Toby is the only female student of the group. She is passionate about helping Lao girls and women in education. In her SAIL application Toby wrote about wanting to set up a scholarship program for Lao girls to attend school. She was getting closer to her dream by volunteering at the Donkoi Children Center and at the same time finding ways to make this possible. Her Lao has also improved a great deal. She admitted that the Lao script is hard to master. Nevertheless she has been trying very hard and judging from her classroom reading the other day, I thought she read Lao perfectly. I kept reminding them not to be so hard of themselves. They have certainly made me proud.

In the evening of July 10^th, all the SAILers, the Program Leader, and the three SAIL professors met for dinner at a local restaurant, Tam Nak Lao. It was wonderful to see all the people who are involved in the SAIL program to sit together in one table enjoying Lao food.

SAILers and friends in front of the Nam Ngum Dam.

My Goodness! Week four already!

It feels like so much has happened in the last seven days. I can hardly think that I am already half-way through the program. I am positive I will be sad to leave when I have to. It is difficult to describe but I think Amy said it best, “I love speaking Lao!”

This past week we finally got out of the city. Going to a Lao Phuan village was a great way to relax and have some fun. Somewhere during our walk over and across the rice fields and up a hill of a single massive rock I felt pretty darn good. We didn’t really get to fish much, but I enjoyed sitting in a boat on the lake and watching an old guy throw a fishing net over and over again uselessly. At night there was music, food and great revelry.

What could top this during the drudgery of the work week? At the National Library on Tuesday, I started studying the ancient Lao Tam script used for writing palm leaf manuscripts. This will allow me to advance my research and read many of the manuscripts available on the Library’s website: Laomanuscripts.net. Also, my Achaan is a wicked Khene player who can blow with the best of ‘em.

Next week, I leave for the conference!