July 18, 2010

Visiting SAILers Part 2

SAILers planting rice at a Tai Daeng village.

On July 11th it was off to a day full of activities. The SAILers, the Program Leader, a few of our friends rented a van and off we go for our excursion. The first stop was a Tai Daeng village where the students got a chance to help the villagers plant rice. I certainly enjoyed getting my feet wet and dirty and watching the other SAILers struggling to place the rice stalks in the mud. We all joked that Akarath was the slowest rice planters we have ever seen.

We finally made it to the village where the students stayed at last weekend and the SAILers got an opportunity to meet with their respective host families. However, a few of the families were out in the rice fields and the SAILers did not get a chance to see them this time around. I told them that since the village is only about two hours by bus they should all take a weekend off and come up to visit them again. Hopefully they’ll take my advice seriously.

We visited the Nam Ngum Dam afterwards. I bought some delicious “som paa” (sour fish). We drove for another hour to the “Taa Ngon” where we ordered some of the most authentic Lao food I have ever tasted. On the menu were “Singers with good voice” (fried crickets), “Disco girls” (fresh water shrimps with the fixings). The shrimps were still alive and jumping in a clear glass plate that was placed over another plate to keep them from getting away. It looked like theywere dancing in a discotheque, thus the name. The shrimps kept jumping even in your mouth, yum! All the SAILers were very adventurous and tried all the dishes we ordered.  The best part of it all was the raft. We got a chance to eat our food on a raft that went up the Nam Ngum River and slowly floated back down.

After the long raft ride, we were exhausted and had to head back to the guesthouse.

Later in the evening I met with Ginny, the owner of the Lao-American College. We talked for a very long time about our collaboration and the SAIL program. I was very pleased that we are able to make the collaboration work for the second year.

July 10, 2010

Too much to remember

SAILers and friends in front of the Nam Ngum Dam.

My Goodness! Week four already!

It feels like so much has happened in the last seven days. I can hardly think that I am already half-way through the program. I am positive I will be sad to leave when I have to. It is difficult to describe but I think Amy said it best, “I love speaking Lao!”

This past week we finally got out of the city. Going to a Lao Phuan village was a great way to relax and have some fun. Somewhere during our walk over and across the rice fields and up a hill of a single massive rock I felt pretty darn good. We didn’t really get to fish much, but I enjoyed sitting in a boat on the lake and watching an old guy throw a fishing net over and over again uselessly. At night there was music, food and great revelry.

What could top this during the drudgery of the work week? At the National Library on Tuesday, I started studying the ancient Lao Tam script used for writing palm leaf manuscripts. This will allow me to advance my research and read many of the manuscripts available on the Library’s website: Laomanuscripts.net. Also, my Achaan is a wicked Khene player who can blow with the best of ‘em.

Next week, I leave for the conference!

July 10, 2010

The Countryside

SAILers visiting their village families where they learned the art of sticky rice basket weaving.

Last weekend we went on our first excursion 70km outside of VTE to the countryside of Phongsong. I am indeed “luk xao na” (daughter of a farm girl) so it wasn’t something new to me to see the farmlands of Laos, but there were many things I got to experience that I have never experienced until last weekend. I’d just like to say how incredibly warm and inviting the people of Phongsong are and I am glad to have met all of them. There was a point during the baci ceremony and final speech that I got really choked up and thought I was going to end up in tears. They will forever be in the fabric of my life and their hospitality will never be forgotten.

1. A Hiking We Will Go – My family has farmlands in Southern Laos, but due to its proximity to our house, we drove there the last time I was in Laos. I am glad we got to walk this trail though. The landscape of Laos is just incredibly beautiful. The green and calm of the country is such a contrast of the hustle and bustle of VTE. There was also a beautiful cave full of Buddha images that was awesome to see that was nestled on the side of a cliff. Although the walk was incredibly long, it was so worth it.

2. Fresh Fish – We hiked all the way to the fishing pond. Ake threw out a fishing net and Ryan got to ride in the boat with a few of the local people. Unfortunately, the fish weren’t biting but the ka thoob (small shack) was a welcome sight for tired feet. The cool Lao breeze swept through the ka thoob and eventually lured a few of us to lay down and shut our eyes for a few minutes. I could have spent a lifetime resting there. The owner was kind enough to get some fish on the grill and invited us to eat with him. Fish couldn’t get any fresh than that!

3. Attack of the Ants – On our walk to the fishing pond, we spotted an ants nest so on our way back we decided to attack it! Unfortunately, the ants decided to do the same in return! In the end, we did conquer them and came home with a bag full of ant eggs and lots of ant bites but it was such a fun and funny experience.

4. Rice Farming – The last time I was in Laos, my family joking asked me to stay and rice farm so I am happy to report that the Farm Girl is still in me and I can farm almost like the local farmers. Granted, my rice plants don’t stay up but I can farm pretty quickly. I will say that I am not a fan of the rice caterpillars but the experience was eye opening to the lifestyle of the country folks.

5. Work Hard; Play Harder – It’s no secret that the country folks work hard. Everything they have, everything they need, everything they eat had to use manpower and be cultivated. The people of Phongsong do bamboo handicrafts and plant rice and when a day’s work is done they know how to relax and enjoy themselves. They were kind enough to let us share in some dancing after a wonderful Lao meal the last night. We did a lot of games that allowed us to interact with them and they also invited us to share a few American games with them. We adapted Duck, Duck, Goose and Red Light. Who knew children’s games could be so fun at our age? Honestly though, it was all about the company that we kept and the people of Phongsong were incredible and it will the a lasting memory for all of us that were there last weekend.

July 10, 2010

Five People

First of all, I’d like to apologize for my lack of updates as I Initially I intended to blog about twice a week but the internet connection is not only slow but sporadic at best, but thank you all for following me on this wonderful trip. Please know that I am having a wonderful time here and the memories I have made so far have been so precious. Everyone told me not to have any expectations, but I think this trip has surpassed every and any expectations I may have had.

I feel I have been very blessed here in Laos. I have been very fortunate to have met some incredibly amazing people in the short time I have been here. Although this list is premature, at best, I’d like to highlight the people I have meet currently that have added so much into my life even in the short amount of time I have known them.

1. Attith: A student at LAC. He picked us up the first night, along with our coordinator, Leung Xuan, and has been a lifesaver ever since. He lunches with us when he can and is always available for any questions we may have. He has done everything from tell me stories about each wat we visited to just sitting with us at the LACenter. He has graciously introduced us to so many of his friends and for his and the many friendships, I am grateful.

2. Nang: Also a student at LAC and also works at LACenter. A new but wonderful friend. She is spunky and inquisitive.  She’s amazing at bargaining and I have a few beautiful new sihns because of her. She helps me by checking my Lao homework before class and in return, I try to help by making her read some difficult articles either for Lao History or anything I can find at the LACenter.

3. Ling: She is Ake’s cousin and is awesome. I know I can always count on her. For some reason she always makes me happy when I am around her.

4. Noy: She is a Lao singer that has an amazing organization that helps kids. I love talking to her because she is so straightforward, but I also love what she is doing for the unfortunate kids of Laos. If I am free on Saturdays, I like to go to her camp and learn traditional Lao dancing. I didn’t realize how difficult it was until I started to learn it.

5. Mimi: She’s another one of first faces we met and again awesome. She has taken us to many wonderful restaurants and someone I can go to if I need anything.

Gosh, there aren’t any bad things I can say, as you can see. I have been very blessed and because of these awesome people, my time here so far has been equally awesome. There are so many other people in my life that I have met that have made this trip so incredibly amazing so far. Each person I have spoken to has added so much to my life. For example, my students at Donkoi Development Center that I am teaching at four mornings each week. I feel like I am making such an impact on their lives. They are so robust and for them I want them to know that they have the potential to be and do anything they want. Or the friends at LAC who take time to help with my Lao homework or just sit and chat with me like they’ve known me for years. I have met so many people at the LACenter just by asking them to help me.

July 10, 2010

Fourth Week

SAILers on their weekend excursion, having lunch on a raft on the Nam Ngum River.

Week four is almost coming to a close and it feels like it’s gone by so quickly! Last night my cousins and I went to a place in the city called Lao ITECC where this huge concert is supposed to take place. But, unfortunately, it rained and because the artists didn’t feel like becoming electrified, it was delayed until tonight. Otherwise the whole group of us explored around the convention inside and checked out all the products that different companies where offering. It was a lot of fun!

Next week the group is going to head out to Khon Kaen to attend the Lao studies conference and I’m pretty psyched to see what’s going to happen soon.  We have to work on a presentation and so we are all pretty busy at work with that.

Buying groceries in Muong Lao is a dream come true! I can’t believe I bought enough groceries to make a meal for less than $3.00. I also happened to do a little bargaining, although I always feel bad but that’s just one of the ways of life here. I’m also intending to take a Lao cooking class too because I love eating and I feel that by eating and making the foods of Lao cuisine I can still have a deep connection with this place post SAIL.

Currently, I’m trying to master singing two Lao songs before the end of this summer and its really hard to remember all of these different words and also that in written Lao there is no such thing as spacing so it’s still difficult but I’m still in the game to keep trying.

I apologize for not putting up pictures but the internet here is so slow that I could take a nap and the computer would still be trying to upload a photo.

As of now unfortunately it is raining at the wrong moment which means I won’t be able to go to the concert tonight. But I am looking forward to going to prepare dinner for my cousins and I. Tonight’s special: Red Curry Chicken! Mhmmm!

July 8, 2010

Week Four

One of the SAILers, Ryan, landed second place at a hotdog eating contest during the 4th of July celebration at the Lao-American College.

SAILers participating in a Baci ceremony during a village visit.

Without question, the highlight of this past week was our excursion to the countryside. I was a bit hesitant to go at first given my recent stomach troubles but the entire trip turned out to be truly eye-opening. My parents, even while in Laos, had always been city folk but there is something about country-living that has always captured my interest.  The easy-going attitudes of the people, the sharing of work, meals, and entertainment were all very apparent in Phonsong.  My host mother had three boys of her own so it was no problem for her to add on another.  Even though I spent very little time in her home other than to sleep, it was clear that she cared a great deal about my comfort during my stay.  I loved the walk from the village to the rice fields and pond. I loved the feel of the warm water and mud between my toes. I regret not having had more time to fish and my being such a disappointing rice planter. I think I brought some shame to my host mother. Haha!

Oh, before we left to the countryside, we celebrated July 4th with some students at the LAC. They played charades and had a hot dog eating competition. Ryan finished strong in 2nd place! Ask him about it. It was so fun(ny)!

Yesterday, I think I had my first true test, among many, in speaking Lao.  One of the students at the LAC asked me about my research.  As I stumbled through the conversation, perhaps even making up words followed by many a ”Kow jai bo?”, I think he was able to understand some of it (I hope).  I know many times at home, I find myself not speaking at all because I just don’t know how to describe in Lao what I want to say in English. I think I’m getting better though.

Our time here in Laos is nearly halfway over. I can’t believe it’s starting to wind down. Tomorrow, my friend Phensy and Ai Achaan Vinya arrives so it will be great to see more familiar faces. Next week, we’re off to Khon Kaen for the Third International Conference on Lao Studies. I’m super excited to learn of the latest research everyone has been working on. I hope I can contribute one day.

July 2, 2010

Classical literature

This past Sunday the SAIL group went to view a small dramatic performance of the Lao classical epic Sang Sinxay. The kids who acted out this one scene were not the best performers of the school as the stars were in Japan for a show there. They didn’t all know their lines enough, so they had to read them. But, this was not to say it wasn’t something special.

Before I went I wasn’t aware that the lady in charge of this drama school was none other than Dara Viravong Kanlaya, the daughter of the late Maha Sila Viravong – one of the great scholars of Laos. It was amazing for me to meet her and to be able to share in her work, even only as an audience member.

But the epic Sang Sinxay is not alone. In fact, according to the imminent James Chamberlin Laos has one of the richest literary heritages, per capita, in the world. It is maddening to see the condition today then, of people who see their language as worth less than English or Thai. Apparently in Lao language studies at the National University there were so few students that in order to encourage enrollment the German government had to offer scholarships.

This is not just English language imperialism, because Lao surveyed read Thai and Vietnamese more than their own language. It goes far deeper than that. Its a sad fact that if no one reads Sang Sinxay, or Nang Phom Hom, or Thao Huang, Thao Cheuang then these masterpieces will be lost. It may be something that goes right along with the death of minority languages in the world, but its difficult to see it happening right before your eyes.

Not to leave off on this gloomy note, I am excited to be visiting the village this weekend and to finally get out of Vientiane. It seems like a very unusual place compared to the rest of Laos. But, I guess I’ll find out!

July 2, 2010

Week Three

Teaching students English at my volunteer work.

Without going much into detail, this week has been the most difficult in terms of my health.  After visiting a clinic yesterday for medication and saline treatment, I am feeling much better and enthused about this weekend’s activities.  Thanks to Toby and Achaan Hommala for accompanying me to the clinic. It was definitely an experience.

Aside from my health, I am enjoying our classes and the close relationships I am building with some of the people I have met here.  I’m finding that Lao people are very quick to offer (medical) advice, what I should have been eating or not eating.  I can’t help but laugh a bit inside while humbly agreeing on the outside.  I think a part of me thinks that I can take care of myself because I have been for the most part in the US.  Here, it seems I am everyone’s brother, son, nephew, or grandson.  I guess people really care.  Even at the clinic, people seemed to be much more personable than some places I’ve been to in the U.S.

I have to mention that one of the highlights of last week was visiting the Children’s Educational Development Center whose director is the daughter of the famed Maha Sila Viravong.  The children that performed a few scenes from the Sinxay drama were absolutely amazing.  They all had an incredible passion for Lao literature. It was great to see the Lao arts alive and well.  Volunteer work, teaching children English, is going well.  The more I know about their personal struggles, the more I in awe of their smiling faces everyday.  It makes me feel so fortunate to have what I have.

We’ll be heading out to the countryside tomorrow.  I’ll tell you all about it next week!

July 1, 2010

SAILers during 3rd week

The 4 SAILers 2010 have been carrying out their activities in Vientiane Capital of Laos as the third week by now. Vientiane which is in the central part of the country is now in the middle rainy season. I mean it rains almost every day during the last two weeks, which means there’s not so many hot days as the previous months and early weeks of this month.  It is such a nice weather for our local people and the 4 SAILers as well.

As the SAIL in-country Program Leader I have talked with the SAILers twice a week when we have a small meetings on Monday and Thursday evenings in which they give me reflections on their situations in regards to their staying at the guesthouse, their food and health, training course, volunteer work and extra-activities.

By now they informed me that there’s no problem with accommodation, food and health. It’s quite convenient to have food in nearby food shop/ restaurants, also access to internet cafe.

They can follow their teachers in learning Lao language, Lao history and culture. Each student has shown progress to some extent in the Lao language learning, especially speaking even though slowly and with strange accent and pronunciation. Reading is alright but sometimes- difficult to understand the meaning of words/ phrases in different tonal levels.

Another thing is quite difficult for them is writing Lao scripts, particularly writing of words with a few number of consonants and vowels. In addition, they still have limited knowledge of vocabulary.  However, they hopefully think that it would be improved in the coming weeks through regular practice and lots homework, and they will learn about sentence pattern, sentence structure as well.

History and culture classes are great. Besides listening to the teacher’s explanation in class they also get supplemental reading materials from the teacher.

Beside having classes for their own lessons the SAILers have been doing an extra work on voluntary basis. Each one of them has done volunteer work since Tuesday 22nd June (week 2).

Toby spends her time in the morning 3 days a week teaching English for 2 groups of kids at the Children Development Center(an attached project to Primary School ) some 10 Km from the guesthouse where she stays. Ryan  is volunteering at the National Library in downtown Vientiane. He goes there 4 days per week- Tuesday to Friday, from 8.30 to 11.00 am. He sits at the front desk giving services to the library visitors who come to read books, borrow books, or register as a member, while he also has opportunity to read Lao history, or literature on the palm-leave script books.

Akarath is volunteering 2 hours in the morning 3 days a week, Wednesday to Friday. He is teaching English to a group of some 40 kids in a primary school located in the heart of city. Phouthasack is doing his volunteer work at the Lao-American College, giving presentations to the classes about the SAIL program and their intention to learn Lao language and history and culture. etc. He also socialize with students there in the school library to practice Lao language for himself while he help students with English or about the USA .

Last weekend the SAILers visited the Children’s Educational Develop. Center (of Vientiane Education Department). They have seen some activities there, such as drawing group, reading room for kids’ story books, show by Sinxay poetry reading group (short drama).

This weekend the SAILers will take a trip to the countryside some 70 Km to the north of Vientiane City. The group would spend 2 days and 1 night in a village. Through this excursion tour they expect to be exposed to rural community livelihood, to have experience on rice planting, fishing, bamboo basket/ mat weaving, and other cultural activities.

July 1, 2010

Reuniting with Family

Me, Uncle Seng, with his children, granddaughter, and niece on the far right

Me and My Uncle Seng

Listening to: Carnival – The Cardigans

Well this week has been pretty busy I must say! It caught me by surprise when I received a phone call from one of my aunts from Pakse and she ended up calling my Dad’s older brother who lives on the outskirts of Vientiane. Then his kids (my cousins) and I ended meeting up with each other at the guesthouse and it was truly a sight for sore eyes. I couldn’t believe that the people standing in front of me were the same people whom I spent time with that long ago first trip I took to Laos with my Dad eight years ago. It’s hard to believe it’s been that long since I’ve talked to them and later that night I followed them to their house to prepare and eat another delicious Lao meal together.

When I walked in the door and saw my uncle he was nearly about to break out in tears and that made me feel special – a feeling I haven’t felt in a very long time. He asked if he could see some pictures of my Dad and I went along and pulled out my Mac book and showed him. He would look in awe and say “Oh! Yep, that is definitely your Father! I still remember his face…” As I looked at his face I saw a little bit of my old man and inside that made me smile.

June 27, 2010

Five Favorites

I’ve been known to be very long-winded and to go off on many tangents. Although it might be fun for some I feel like if I am like that in this blog, I will confuse you so instead, I will post about FIVE things in each post. Although every day can’t be roses and sunshine, I want to look back at this adventure and see the beauty of Laos and the people shine through. I really do believe that I am the master of my fate and I am determined to make the most of this program.

For this post – FIVE FAVORITES:

1. Favorite Restaurant – Last night the whole group got together and walked to a Lao restaurant nearby. It’s actually pretty rare that we are ALL together so it was a nice change of pace. Plus, it was such a nice night since it has finally started to rain here in VTE. We have been fortunate to have been taken to many fabulous places to eat and although I have only been here for 13 days, I am confident in putting this restaurant on my list of Top Five Favorite Restaurants. The food and atmosphere is excellent and it is quite inexpensive. The nam khao and papaya salad here are the best I have tasted in Laos so far! As usual, we laughed a lot and it was a good time.

2. Favorite Fun Moment – The reason I am here in VTE (and a participant of SAIL) is so I can learn about my culture. I know I have a lot to learn and like a sponge, I am trying to soak up as much as I can. I have been introduced to some incredibly beautiful people including Noi. She runs a place that teaches the Lao way of life – custom, dance, mannerisms, etc. The second time I went to visit her place; the kids did another performance for us and invited us to dance with them. It was a lot of fun and I loved how happy they all looked when dancing. I hope they never lose that hope in their eyes.

3. Favorite Breakfast Food – Most of you know that I’m not a morning person, but amazingly I’m usually up by 6:30 (even when I want to sleep in!) so I usually get ready for the day and head across the street and go to this tiny place that has the best rice noodle soup. Although I try to mix up my morning foods, this place will always be my favorite place. We went there the first morning and I haven’t stopped going yet.

4. Favorite Teacher – Achaan Hommala, of course! She’s my Lao teacher and I enjoy her very much. I know I can’t write or read that well and she has been really good about allowing both Ake and I to do both as much as possible during class. She’s awesome about taking questions and giving examples for better comprehension.

5. Favorite Activity – This week was the first week of the new term for LAC students so it was nice to finally make some more friends. We’ve had lunch a few times with some this week and then I really enjoy going to the LAC Center to meet up with them before class.

June 27, 2010

End of 2nd Wknd

Today marks the end of my second week in Laos. It seems that time goes by so fast, yet it feels as though I’ve been here for a longer than two weeks. With my cousins coming to visit all the way from Pakse, it has made it easier for me to converse in Lao since they don’t really speak English all too well. It’s relieving to know that they understand where I come from and are more than willing to help with my homework.

Right now I am going to be doing some volunteer work at the good old LAC (Lao American College) with helping students with their English. I am excited to be doing this because I’ll be able to have more of a connection with the students at the school I’m attending. I also get to be around Lao students my age speaking Lao which makes me want to speak even more.

I am getting more and more used to the Lao alphabet with its many different tones, vowels, and confusing to hear consonants. I hope to be writing more fluently as time passes by.

Recently I’ve been noticing as I’ve gotten to know new people from time to time, they always ask me what ethnicity I am. Confused as I already am, I tell them that I am Lao. Responding with confusion back, they tell me that I don’t really look Lao but either Chinese or Japanese. This idea that majority of people I run into say that perplexes every time it crosses my mind.

But either way, it’s a blessing to be here at this moment and to be able to look at all the wonderful marvels like the That Luang stupa and the fabulous downtown scene.

June 25, 2010

Intellectuals in Vieng Chan

We finally had some rain this week to cool off the city. Walking yesterday, I didn’t instantly break into sweat! I have been exploring the city more and more as time goes on and I really have to say I prefer the outskirts to the down-town area. Being down-town I see so many back-packers and other unscrupulous dealings that I am always glad to return. I just wish there were more Lao restaurants near our guest-house!

This week I started volunteering at the National Library. I had wanted to work with the Lao Manuscript Preservation program (Laomanuscripts.net) but I realized I did not have any skills that would contribute. The director of the Library, Aachaan Bounleut did offer me access however, so I am feverishly trying to find a teacher for the Lao tham script in order to read the palm leaf manuscripts.

For me, it is very interesting to see the intellectual life of Vieng Chan. I understand that the country needs so much and some may think it is frivolous of me to work in a library instead of offering more pragmatic help, but I believe in what I’m doing. In a way I think the country can’t help itself until it knows itself. Many at LAC and elsewhere are studying other languages and reading other literature, but I haven’t found anyone who can name their favorite Lao author. Studying other societies is a noble occupation, but not before yourselves! Only Lao will ever understand Lao the way its authors and artists can, so I hope that my work at the Library will be a small contribution to this goal. Next week I hope to travel to the National University, until then – Xok Dee Der!

June 25, 2010

Week Two

As I close out my second week in Laos, I am comforted by a sense of familiarity–with the people and places of Vientiane.  I continue to meet new people daily at the Lao American College (LAC) who have invited us to a couple of their events including a July 4th celebration. It will be interesting to see what they come up with. Although I feel very Lao, I am constantly reminded of my difference. True, I am not a Lao national nor have I mastered all of the nuances of colloquial Lao but my “American-ness” seems easily detectable. This fact has given me an even greater appreciation for the Lao people and its culture because it has been challenging for me, forcing me to rethink what I thought I knew about being Lao and being American for that matter. I am trying to absorb everything I can in and out of class. I’m so fortunate to be surrounded by so many willing “teachers.”

I started volunteering two days ago at Sihom Primary School. The school had closed down due to lack of students and poor administration, but Noi Sengsourigna (the director of the Sengsourigna Children’s Music and Cultural Center) was able to get a classroom reopened for me to teach some of the underprivileged neighborhood children English. Thus far, it has been a rewarding experience. The children are so eager to learn despite their unfortunately home lives. I only hope my limited time with them will give them some hope. I love how the students greet me when I arrive and politely ask to leave when they depart. This is something I will surely share with my community when I return to Milwaukee.

Athith, our primary language partner, has been great! A few days ago, he took us to a restaurant that served Lao food. It was incredible! I love how much Ryan loves Tam Mak Hung and how Sack, Toby and Natalie are just so positive about everything. The place was called Mieng Chao Kao, about at 10-15 walk from the guesthouse. This weekend was supposed to be our trip to the countryside but that has been postponed. Instead, we’ll check out Sinxay Drama Club. I’m looking forward to it as acting is a secret love of mine.

Take Care!

June 21, 2010

6/20

Johnny, Me, Thao, and Dan. My Mother’s side of the family.

Now starts the second week of my adventure in Laos. This summer marks my second time visiting Laos since I was 13 years old. It was such a blessing for my cousins, Thao and Johnny to come all the way from Pakse to visit me. I would say that Thao, although only 26,  is like an Aunt to me the way she always makes sure I do my homework, brush my teeth, etc. I have not seen these two sine my last visit. They have been helping me to figure out the alphabet with its many tone rules and pronunciations. I must say, that learning the alphabet is a little difficult for me to pick up quickly since the Lao language is a tonal language, but that’s not stopping me from trying my absolute best to perfect my speaking skills!