Before I left the US to come to Laos, I was a bit wary of these other SAILers but I quickly found out that I could not have asked for a better group of individuals to have shared this experience with.  Thank you to Toby for her humor and friendship, to Sack for his silliness and love of adventure, to Ryan for his openness and insightful observations, and to Natalie for her warm smile and frequent confusion (joking).  Lung Xuan, too, made this journey very comfortable and at times, extremely entertaining.  He made sure we were always alright.  I can tell that he’s grown attached to us over these eight weeks and I know that we feel the same way about him.  He will undoubtedly be a great program leader for next year’s SAILers.

As all the SAILers go their separate ways, I know I will miss everyone.  My time here in Laos is winding down and it seems like there is still so much left to do.  I leave Laos this time with a better appreciation for what the country has gone through, where it is now, and the hope that the people here have for its future. I am sure I will be back here one day, hopefully sooner rather than later. I will certainly miss this place and the people here.  I know I still have much to learn about Laos but I feel that because of the SAIL program, my connection to Laos has been strengthened and will serve as a launching point to other great opportunities here in the future.

Lastly, thank you to Dr. Vinya and all the supporters of the SAIL Program and the Center for Lao Studies.  Such a program is vital for Lao Americans and other Americans to understand their identities and the changing world around them.  Laos is not stagnant.  It is important for students to broaden their experiences and the SAIL Program is an excellent opportunity to do just that.

Many thanks to 2010 SAILers. By the end of today we will most likely have taken off on different paths. Good luck on your journey back to the states.

But of course the true person I should really be thanking is Dr. Vinya. If not for you I would never have had the opportunity to do the many wonderful things I have been able to do. I wish that I could just pour all the money in the world into your pocket for all your countless hours of dedication to this program and for the Center for Lao Studies. You are truly an inspiration to look up to.

But my adventure has not ended yet. Tonight I will be riding a bus back to Pakse to visit my parents home villages of Ban Yong and Ban Sapai. I will also be looking forward to seeing the waterfalls and hopefully Wat Phu Champasaak. By the end of this trip I have toured most of Laos and I am very pleased to have that opportunity. SAIL 2010.

I will surely miss the sights and sounds and people that have come into our lives so gracefully and have changed us for the better. Our teachers and the staff at LAC, our friends and family, and Lung Xuan -  I hope they all know that we are grateful for their friendships, support and  love. This feeling is why I keep coming back to Laos and I hope that all know that they will forever be a part of our lives. I leave this country a better person because of everyone that have crossed our paths.

Ake, Ryan, and Sack – Thank you thank you thank you for being there for me always during our time together in Laos and for your friendships. I feel really lucky to have been surrounded by such amazing people. I will miss seeing your faces everyday and the crazy antics that only we can create together. The road does not end here for us and I am positive that each and every one of you will do amazing and great things both in the States and in Laos.

Lastly, thank you all of you that have been reading. Thank you for supporting me and please support CLS and the wonderful things it can offer.

We first set out to see the Plain of Jars which put in me in awe and also deeply mystified. There were so many of this large, stone jars just sitting out on the hills of Xieng Khouang. What were these really used for? Some say that these were jars used for rice liquor for soldiers in ancient times. Others say that these jars were used to put the remains of royal ancestry after they passed away. And then others believe that these jars were used for trading amongst merchants coming in from China. Hopefully in time mankind will come up with the indefinite answer to this enigma that has been unsolved for so long.

It was interesting to learn that XK is one of the most heavily bombed areas of Laos. I decided to go to MAG’s (Mines Advisory Group) walk-in learning center to find out more about the bombings. Before coming to Laos I didn’t know that the United States had such an involvement with Laos with all the immense amounts of bombs they dropped on the country, which now makes Laos the most heavily bombed country in the world. Laos was bombed more heavily than all the bomb dropped during WWII, which I think is heartbreaking to know since war was never really declared on Laos; at least only of my limited knowledge.

It’s also really sad to know that the leftover bombs dropped on the country put Laos in such a bad shape since farmers can’t plant crops as freely as they want to without getting killed or losing some permanent part of their body to an explosion. It makes me want to get more involved in ridding this issue of bombs.

Then after that the group went to Tham Piu to learn about the killing of an estimated 374 people hiding in a cave got killed by missile bombs shot from American planes. The majority of people were regular citizens. I’ll have to more research to understand the reason why this happened.

Other than the history of Xieng Khouang, the weather was just right compared to the hot hustle and bustle of Vientiane. Not that there’s anything wrong with Vientiane, but sometimes it does get hot!

What else that has been on my mind lately is the future of Lao music. I’ve been out to many of the clubs out here in Laos and it just surprises me that there are barely, if any, songs played that are sung by Lao singers, in Lao. It’s always a bunch of American pop songs, then here and there your Korean pop, and then your of course Thai love songs to fill in the rest. But what about Lao songs? I don’t mind the American songs since I am from the US Aafter all. But, still, ya know.

Hopefully more Lao songs get played more within society so I can come back and feel like I’m in Laos, not America.

This is the final week of my journey  with the SAIL program. I’m very, very sad to realize that I have so little time left here. I feel, that I need more time to be here and understand the country. But, I am forever grateful that I had the opportunity of coming here and learning more about my Lao roots. I am happy to say that I will be visit my parents villages of Ban Yong and Ban Sapai in Pakse next week. I can’t wait to learn more about how they grew up and what South has to offer.

Until Next Time,

Phouthasack

To learn more about the unexploded bomb situation in Laos visit MAG’s website at:

http://www.maginternational.org/

We were tourists again this trip. We went to the Plain of Jars (site #1). Everyone craned their necks to see inside them. While we were all wondering what the jars were used for (they say liquor or funerals) it was hard to not notice the massive bomb craters in the middle of the site. I was upset myself to see one of the largest jars had been toppled over and shattered, presumably by the crater directly next to it. One can only wonder what has been erased by the war. You don’t have to look far to see the continuing effects — such as the warning signs to watch for bombies.

Later that day we went to the MAG UXO museum. The most important thing I have learned is to see forty years later the legacy of the war from the perspective of the receiving-end of US imperialism. How can the U.S. embassy be contributing such a pittance to the UXO removal program?! How can they smile so vacantly in the face of their handy-work? The US embassy was certainly not so hands-off during the war. In fact, they were picking the targets to bomb. It is a bitter pill to take but to learn this is something that most Americans need.

Lung Xuan and I at the Plain of Jars

In the midst of preparing for my presentation, the other SAILers and I  were able to take a trip to Xieng Khouang.  It was such a scenic trip.  The rolling hills and mountains against a backdrop of blue skies and white clouds were more impressive to the eye than anything I have ever seen in a picture. My first impressions of Xieng Khouang was that it was a dusty little town, something out of a Western movie, with one main street in and out of the city.  Everything seemed to shut down after 11pm, which made walking the streets at night a bit of an adventure.  While walking back to the guesthouse one night, Toby, Michael and I were invited to join two parties. The people there were extremely hospitable.  I did notice the large amount of Vietnamese that was spoken in the city. Apparently, Xieng Khouang is a major stop between Hanoi and Vientiane, contributing to the growing Vietnamese presence there.

Aside from Xieng Khouang nightlife, we visited the Plain of Jars, Muong Khun (famous for its ancient stupas and temples that were ravished during the war).  My favorite part of the trip was the visit to Tham Phiou.  From 1964 to 1968, the cave was used as a safe haven for local residents during the bombing campaigns that took place in the province.  More than 300 civilians were killed when missiles were fired directly into the cave. For most of my life, I heard stories about the “legacies of war” from the experience of those who made it to the United States.  I learned from the visit to the cave that such atrocities are as valid and should not be forgotten.  It is a tragedy of war no matter what side one supported. Innocent people suffered all over the country and it is important to remember their stories.

Burial sites on the cliffsides below Tham Phiou

On top of Mount Puu Sii overlooking all of Luang Prabang from above.

Releasing my feelings through the setting free of animals.

What can I say? I’ve been enjoying my time here in Muong Lao. Last weekend Ryan, Natalie, Toby and I went to visit the famous city of Luang Prabang. I said to myself that I had to make sure to visit this city because I had heard so much about it! In the peaceful town we visited the royal palace, Mount Puu Sii, and sailed a boat down the Mekong to take a look at the ancient caves. Luang Prabang is a place worth your time and money to visit. It’s so peaceful and the scenery of the mountains make you feel at one with the world.

What was funny was that our return journey back to Vientiane a huge mudslide occurred causing a huge traffic jam lasting for almost four hours! I’ve heard that mudslides are common around the rainy season. The mountains and scenery that you see while riding the bus up North will take your breath away. Simply put, it’s the grand canyon of Laos. What else was also interesting was the bus passed a lot of Hmong villages. It was surprising to see that the village way of life. It reminded me a lot of the stories my parents told me about their childhood experiences.

I am happy to announce that this weekend the SAILers are currently in Xieng Khouang at the time being. I can’t wait to see the mysteries of the plain of jars. I am also excited to talk to survivors of the unexploded bombs in this area of Lao. It disheartens me so to know that so many people lose their lives or become handicapped because of these unexploded bombs. It makes me wish I could do more for them.

That’s all for this blog. I promise to come back with more news of beautiful Muong Lao!

Until Next Time!

Phouthasack =)

Yesterday was my last day at the Donkoi Children Development Center (DCDC) so I will finally have my mornings free to do anything I haven’t done yet before it is time to head back to the States. My final day at DCDC consisted of a lot of hugs and a send off baci ceremony. The kids were eager to tie a string around my wrists and share many wishes. Although I won’t miss the morning commute, I will miss the kids immensely. With the pre-baci speech and the many gifts (cards and handicrafts done by the kids) that were given to me, I am positive that my presence there was not a waste. I feel a deep sense of satisfaction that only comes with knowing that I impacted many wonderful kids.

I have had many wonderful opportunities here to explore and be a part of this wonderful country. I’ve made some amazing deep connections that will definitely make my departure much harder than it would have been many weeks ago.

Sack, Ryan, Natalie and I took an overnight bus after school last Thursday. We finally got there 13 hours later and found a place to stay. I will say that when I woke up on Friday morning there was a hint of regret only because I could hear it pouring outside. I didn’t pay money to come sleep in another guesthouse. Amazingly the rain let up and Sack and I went exploring. We got some amazing noodles and then decided to see some temples. As a world heritage city, there were many beautiful temples to visit. Besides the temples, we also went to a cave by boat that had many Buddha images. The boat ride was beautiful with miles and miles of forestery as far as the eye can see on every side.

The trip home was crazy, but I am glad we got to experience it. I sat at the top front of the VIP bus and the views were breathtaking. I hope to make the trip again one day.

1. It was well organized. Like any professional gathering, there are bound to be bumps along the way, and should there have been any at this conference, they went unnoticed by me. The SAILers were able to also be a part of it by helping out with registration. It was a nice way to meet some of the participants and presenters.

2. Great panels. I have never been to a Lao Studies Conference but I am happy to report that I went to many presentations that were wonderful on the subject of Laos. Unfortunately, because of the large number of presenters, there were a few that I had to miss but I am confident that they would have been as exceptional as the ones I did get to attend.

3. Awesome receptions. Luckily I got to go to two awesome receptions – 1) Center for Laos Studies Reception and 2) Conference Reception. The CLS reception was amazing because it was for an organization we are all a part of. CLS is a young organization but it has grown into such an amazing one. We also got to share with everyone during a presentation what we have done so far in the SAIL program. We also got to showcase our reading/singing skills by singing two songs that our teachers have taught us. The conference reception was just beautiful. There was a beautiful fashion show of some of the Lao ethnic clothing and then a lot of Lao dancing. The girls were absolutely beautiful and I was utterly amazed by the beauty of our culture and what we have to offer.

4. Nice accommodations/food. We stayed at the hotel the conference was held at and that made it so convenient. The breakfast was great full of choices. Don’t forget, we have been in Laos for a month and usually eating similar things day in and day out. It was a nice change of scenery.

5. The conference brought Vinya to Laos! It was so nice to see him again. I think we all made him proud with the progress we have made so far. I still feel that this is the best place to be for me as I try to learn the language again since I know that what I lack (reading and writing) can only be readily found here. We got to spend some quality time with Vinya and even introduce him to some of the people that have made the first month as wonderful as it was.