On Saturday, I visited the children again at Noi Sengsourigna’s Children’s Music and Cultural Center. They performed for myself and Phensy, a friend of mine from Milwaukee, who is visiting Laos after having attended the International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand. They were awesome! Of course, Phensy, Todd (who was also there), and I had to sing for the children. I did not disappoint with my out of tune attempt at “Nam Song See.” I think the kids liked it. Later in the evening, I was supposed to go out but that never materialized due to an unfortunate car accident (luckily no one was injured). Since I’ve been here, I’ve personally witnessed three accidents happen, and at least 10-12 aftermaths.  Vientiane has definitely changed since the last time I was here in 2000. There are so many “big cars” here now and many times carelessness and other factors have caused accidents.

Sunday, I was surprised when 2 students (and one of their sisters) from Khon Kaen University in Thailand came to visit. They were on vacation and wanted to visit Laos and well as interview a few native English speakers for a project of theirs.  I was amazed by one of the girls’ willingness to speak Lao to me when only a couple weeks ago at the conference she spoke Thai and English to me. Though she transitioned to Thai now again and I to English now and again, I thought the whole day was quite educational for all of us.  Ay Joi, another friend I’ve encountered along this journey, took all of us to Patuxay.  The last time I climbed those stairs was 16 years ago.  The whole area has changed dramatically.  The view of city was beautiful! I’m sure the view will continue to change as the city grows and continues to develop.

After this we happily returned to Vientiane – it was good to be back. I returned to my second week of studying the Tham script at the National Library. I also began learning to play the Khene, a Lao instrument which is slightly similar to a European Accordion. I am learning this much slower, but I did happen to see Dr. Gregory Green drop by to show me what good study yields! Seeing him and Aachaan Tong Suey in a Khene jam session convinced me that this is great music and a great instrument.

For the weekend Toby, Phouthasack, Natalie and I went to Luang Prabang. This place is jaw-dropping gorgeous if you can avoid the back-packers. The mountains of Northern Laos cover the landscape except for the little valley in which this royal city is nestled. We only had two days, but we made the most of them, visiting the old Royal Palace (now a “museum”), Mt. Phu Si which offered a view of the entire city, and Wat Xieng Thong which is the most beautiful wat I have seen in Laos. We also found time to take a boat ride to the incredible Ting caves which house a number of Buddhist statues and shrines. All in all it was a great trip!

SAILers 2010 taking photo with the CLS Executive Director at the conference room

Instead of having classes in Vientiane, The SAILers spent 4 days in the week 5 of their SAIL program to participate in the 3rd International Conference on Laos Studies at Khon Kaen, Thailand which was held on 14th to 16th of July. This is a significant event for them and for myself as well. For us all, it’s a valuable experience having attended such great conference. Beside the group of SAILers, there were more than twenty participants from Laos going to join the conference, among them were professors from the National University of Laos (NUOL) who were invited and sponsored by the Center for Lao Studies, some interested individuals and SAILers’ friends. In fact, this conference is the gathering of scholars and academic experts in different fields of knowledge and wisdom. The participants have wide range of choice to listen to the topics they are interested in.

To me, it is a great conference I ever have attended. Thanks for the host organizers, especially the Center For Laos Studies for giving me an opportunity to experience this big event. I feel I have gained a lot of new knowledge and also have consolidated some knowledge I had previously learned about it many years ago.

I had listened to quite many topics. such as  Phra Lak Phra Lam (Lao and Isan-Ramayana); Land concession and rubber plantation in the north of Laos, Land use planning; Cash economy and sexual practice in Laos community; the Role of FM Radios along the Lao-Thai border areas; Conflict Resolutions in the Mekong basin.

We came back to Laos in the same group that we had on the departure day, except for Dr. Vinya Sysamouth who went back home from Thailand directly. After the conference closing at 12.00 pm of 16th July, we were pick up at the conference venue (Charoen Thani Princess Hotel in the heart of Khon Kaen City) by a bus of Khon Kaen University which transferred us to the Friendship Bridge on Thai side, then we were pick up by a mini bus from Vientiane.

On the morning of July 13th, we were off to Khon Kaen for the 3rd International Conference on Lao Studies. We were fortunate enough to ride along with 12 prominent professors from the National University of Laos.  They shared stories with us while we entertained them with our singing skills.  The conference was great too. I was astounded by the different research that has been done on Laos and as Grant Evans noted, the great research yet to done. I left there thinking about the possibilities of my own research and how I could contribute.

Though we didn’t go out much in Khon Kaen, I felt like the spirit of the Lao people of Isan at the conference–in the warm smiles and hospitable gesture of the staff and volunteers.  I think I should share a certain experience I had.  While I was in Khon Kaen, I had the opportunity to do some shopping. I remembered that Dr. Vinya said that he refused to speak Thai in Isan. With that in mind, I spoke Lao to almost everyone I met and consequently shocked by their response in Thai. Dr. Vinya later explained to me that Thai was a formal language, whereas Lao was reserved for more intimate, personal “spaces” (perhaps a future topic of research). Overall, I was quite impressed by the quality of presentations, both receptions, and the comradery I always feel at these conferences. I can’t wait until 2013 in Wisconsin!

A lot has happened in the past week that I almost forgot to write my blog! Last week was the Third International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand and I must say that it was an experience I’ll never forget. It was so interesting to see so many people from different countries whose sole purpose was focused on the topic of Lao studies! Before even the first one was even held, I honestly thought that nobody really cared about Lao Studies; but now I can rest assured. After attending the conference I almost am thinking of maybe getting some sort of degree in Southeast Asian studies – specifically about Lao.

Other than that I am very glad to be in Laos right now and I am learning so much about the language. I am also glad to see that my reading has improved better than I had expected! I am missing all of my cousins from the Vieng and Pakse very much on account of I don’t get to see them as often as before. I love how I can converse in Lao with them and they are more than willing to help me out with any grammatical mistakes that I make. I am excited to say that this week I will be leaving for Luang Prabang. Then the following week I’ll be going to see the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khouang and maybe Vang Vieng on the side if I can.

When marking down the remaining days I have left in Laos I realized that I only have three weeks left here! I wish I could stay here longer… I really don’t want to go back because I’ll really miss my cousins and also I need to learn so much more about this country and the way of life here.

With a parting note I will say bring an umbrella! When it rains in Laos, boy, does it rain hard.

Until Next Time!

Phouthasack =D

SAILers planting rice at a Tai Daeng village.

On July 11th it was off to a day full of activities. The SAILers, the Program Leader, a few of our friends rented a van and off we go for our excursion. The first stop was a Tai Daeng village where the students got a chance to help the villagers plant rice. I certainly enjoyed getting my feet wet and dirty and watching the other SAILers struggling to place the rice stalks in the mud. We all joked that Akarath was the slowest rice planters we have ever seen.

We finally made it to the village where the students stayed at last weekend and the SAILers got an opportunity to meet with their respective host families. However, a few of the families were out in the rice fields and the SAILers did not get a chance to see them this time around. I told them that since the village is only about two hours by bus they should all take a weekend off and come up to visit them again. Hopefully they’ll take my advice seriously.

We visited the Nam Ngum Dam afterwards. I bought some delicious “som paa” (sour fish). We drove for another hour to the “Taa Ngon” where we ordered some of the most authentic Lao food I have ever tasted. On the menu were “Singers with good voice” (fried crickets), “Disco girls” (fresh water shrimps with the fixings). The shrimps were still alive and jumping in a clear glass plate that was placed over another plate to keep them from getting away. It looked like theywere dancing in a discotheque, thus the name. The shrimps kept jumping even in your mouth, yum! All the SAILers were very adventurous and tried all the dishes we ordered.  The best part of it all was the raft. We got a chance to eat our food on a raft that went up the Nam Ngum River and slowly floated back down.

After the long raft ride, we were exhausted and had to head back to the guesthouse.

Later in the evening I met with Ginny, the owner of the Lao-American College. We talked for a very long time about our collaboration and the SAIL program. I was very pleased that we are able to make the collaboration work for the second year.

SAILers and friends in front of the Nam Ngum Dam.

My Goodness! Week four already!

It feels like so much has happened in the last seven days. I can hardly think that I am already half-way through the program. I am positive I will be sad to leave when I have to. It is difficult to describe but I think Amy said it best, “I love speaking Lao!”

This past week we finally got out of the city. Going to a Lao Phuan village was a great way to relax and have some fun. Somewhere during our walk over and across the rice fields and up a hill of a single massive rock I felt pretty darn good. We didn’t really get to fish much, but I enjoyed sitting in a boat on the lake and watching an old guy throw a fishing net over and over again uselessly. At night there was music, food and great revelry.

What could top this during the drudgery of the work week? At the National Library on Tuesday, I started studying the ancient Lao Tam script used for writing palm leaf manuscripts. This will allow me to advance my research and read many of the manuscripts available on the Library’s website: Laomanuscripts.net. Also, my Achaan is a wicked Khene player who can blow with the best of ‘em.

Next week, I leave for the conference!

SAILers visiting their village families where they learned the art of sticky rice basket weaving.

Last weekend we went on our first excursion 70km outside of VTE to the countryside of Phongsong. I am indeed “luk xao na” (daughter of a farm girl) so it wasn’t something new to me to see the farmlands of Laos, but there were many things I got to experience that I have never experienced until last weekend. I’d just like to say how incredibly warm and inviting the people of Phongsong are and I am glad to have met all of them. There was a point during the baci ceremony and final speech that I got really choked up and thought I was going to end up in tears. They will forever be in the fabric of my life and their hospitality will never be forgotten.

1. A Hiking We Will Go – My family has farmlands in Southern Laos, but due to its proximity to our house, we drove there the last time I was in Laos. I am glad we got to walk this trail though. The landscape of Laos is just incredibly beautiful. The green and calm of the country is such a contrast of the hustle and bustle of VTE. There was also a beautiful cave full of Buddha images that was awesome to see that was nestled on the side of a cliff. Although the walk was incredibly long, it was so worth it.

2. Fresh Fish – We hiked all the way to the fishing pond. Ake threw out a fishing net and Ryan got to ride in the boat with a few of the local people. Unfortunately, the fish weren’t biting but the ka thoob (small shack) was a welcome sight for tired feet. The cool Lao breeze swept through the ka thoob and eventually lured a few of us to lay down and shut our eyes for a few minutes. I could have spent a lifetime resting there. The owner was kind enough to get some fish on the grill and invited us to eat with him. Fish couldn’t get any fresh than that!

3. Attack of the Ants – On our walk to the fishing pond, we spotted an ants nest so on our way back we decided to attack it! Unfortunately, the ants decided to do the same in return! In the end, we did conquer them and came home with a bag full of ant eggs and lots of ant bites but it was such a fun and funny experience.

4. Rice Farming – The last time I was in Laos, my family joking asked me to stay and rice farm so I am happy to report that the Farm Girl is still in me and I can farm almost like the local farmers. Granted, my rice plants don’t stay up but I can farm pretty quickly. I will say that I am not a fan of the rice caterpillars but the experience was eye opening to the lifestyle of the country folks.

5. Work Hard; Play Harder – It’s no secret that the country folks work hard. Everything they have, everything they need, everything they eat had to use manpower and be cultivated. The people of Phongsong do bamboo handicrafts and plant rice and when a day’s work is done they know how to relax and enjoy themselves. They were kind enough to let us share in some dancing after a wonderful Lao meal the last night. We did a lot of games that allowed us to interact with them and they also invited us to share a few American games with them. We adapted Duck, Duck, Goose and Red Light. Who knew children’s games could be so fun at our age? Honestly though, it was all about the company that we kept and the people of Phongsong were incredible and it will the a lasting memory for all of us that were there last weekend.

I feel I have been very blessed here in Laos. I have been very fortunate to have met some incredibly amazing people in the short time I have been here. Although this list is premature, at best, I’d like to highlight the people I have meet currently that have added so much into my life even in the short amount of time I have known them.

1. Attith: A student at LAC. He picked us up the first night, along with our coordinator, Leung Xuan, and has been a lifesaver ever since. He lunches with us when he can and is always available for any questions we may have. He has done everything from tell me stories about each wat we visited to just sitting with us at the LACenter. He has graciously introduced us to so many of his friends and for his and the many friendships, I am grateful.

2. Nang: Also a student at LAC and also works at LACenter. A new but wonderful friend. She is spunky and inquisitive.  She’s amazing at bargaining and I have a few beautiful new sihns because of her. She helps me by checking my Lao homework before class and in return, I try to help by making her read some difficult articles either for Lao History or anything I can find at the LACenter.

3. Ling: She is Ake’s cousin and is awesome. I know I can always count on her. For some reason she always makes me happy when I am around her.

4. Noy: She is a Lao singer that has an amazing organization that helps kids. I love talking to her because she is so straightforward, but I also love what she is doing for the unfortunate kids of Laos. If I am free on Saturdays, I like to go to her camp and learn traditional Lao dancing. I didn’t realize how difficult it was until I started to learn it.

5. Mimi: She’s another one of first faces we met and again awesome. She has taken us to many wonderful restaurants and someone I can go to if I need anything.

Gosh, there aren’t any bad things I can say, as you can see. I have been very blessed and because of these awesome people, my time here so far has been equally awesome. There are so many other people in my life that I have met that have made this trip so incredibly amazing so far. Each person I have spoken to has added so much to my life. For example, my students at Donkoi Development Center that I am teaching at four mornings each week. I feel like I am making such an impact on their lives. They are so robust and for them I want them to know that they have the potential to be and do anything they want. Or the friends at LAC who take time to help with my Lao homework or just sit and chat with me like they’ve known me for years. I have met so many people at the LACenter just by asking them to help me.

SAILers on their weekend excursion, having lunch on a raft on the Nam Ngum River.

Week four is almost coming to a close and it feels like it’s gone by so quickly! Last night my cousins and I went to a place in the city called Lao ITECC where this huge concert is supposed to take place. But, unfortunately, it rained and because the artists didn’t feel like becoming electrified, it was delayed until tonight. Otherwise the whole group of us explored around the convention inside and checked out all the products that different companies where offering. It was a lot of fun!

Next week the group is going to head out to Khon Kaen to attend the Lao studies conference and I’m pretty psyched to see what’s going to happen soon.  We have to work on a presentation and so we are all pretty busy at work with that.

Buying groceries in Muong Lao is a dream come true! I can’t believe I bought enough groceries to make a meal for less than $3.00. I also happened to do a little bargaining, although I always feel bad but that’s just one of the ways of life here. I’m also intending to take a Lao cooking class too because I love eating and I feel that by eating and making the foods of Lao cuisine I can still have a deep connection with this place post SAIL.

Currently, I’m trying to master singing two Lao songs before the end of this summer and its really hard to remember all of these different words and also that in written Lao there is no such thing as spacing so it’s still difficult but I’m still in the game to keep trying.

I apologize for not putting up pictures but the internet here is so slow that I could take a nap and the computer would still be trying to upload a photo.

As of now unfortunately it is raining at the wrong moment which means I won’t be able to go to the concert tonight. But I am looking forward to going to prepare dinner for my cousins and I. Tonight’s special: Red Curry Chicken! Mhmmm!