This week we had our second trip outside of Vientiane. This time we traveled northeast to Xieng Khoung Province and the city of Phonsavanh. There is a lot more to the place than it is given credit for in the guide books. Just coming to the city it felt like it was a “real” Lao city. Not like Luang Prabang with the UNESCO status and the endless pilgrimage of tourists. Not even like Vientiane which is so much larger than anything else in the country. This city was in the words of our program leader more dusty and more like Vientiane in the ’90s. As for the night life — everything closes quite early!

We were tourists again this trip. We went to the Plain of Jars (site #1). Everyone craned their necks to see inside them. While we were all wondering what the jars were used for (they say liquor or funerals) it was hard to not notice the massive bomb craters in the middle of the site. I was upset myself to see one of the largest jars had been toppled over and shattered, presumably by the crater directly next to it. One can only wonder what has been erased by the war. You don’t have to look far to see the continuing effects — such as the warning signs to watch for bombies.

Later that day we went to the MAG UXO museum. The most important thing I have learned is to see forty years later the legacy of the war from the perspective of the receiving-end of US imperialism. How can the U.S. embassy be contributing such a pittance to the UXO removal program?! How can they smile so vacantly in the face of their handy-work? The US embassy was certainly not so hands-off during the war. In fact, they were picking the targets to bomb. It is a bitter pill to take but to learn this is something that most Americans need.

Hello all! Since my last post we Sailers have spent a week in Khon Khaen, Thailand at the 3rd International Lao Studies Conference. This was such an important event because I finally found a venue where scholars of Laos were not the minority, or the exception. To me this is what a conference is all about! My personal highlights were the panels on Lao history and 16th century religion. The one problem with the conference was… there were too many great panels at one time! But of course, this is a problem that we want.

After this we happily returned to Vientiane – it was good to be back. I returned to my second week of studying the Tham script at the National Library. I also began learning to play the Khene, a Lao instrument which is slightly similar to a European Accordion. I am learning this much slower, but I did happen to see Dr. Gregory Green drop by to show me what good study yields! Seeing him and Aachaan Tong Suey in a Khene jam session convinced me that this is great music and a great instrument.

For the weekend Toby, Phouthasack, Natalie and I went to Luang Prabang. This place is jaw-dropping gorgeous if you can avoid the back-packers. The mountains of Northern Laos cover the landscape except for the little valley in which this royal city is nestled. We only had two days, but we made the most of them, visiting the old Royal Palace (now a “museum”), Mt. Phu Si which offered a view of the entire city, and Wat Xieng Thong which is the most beautiful wat I have seen in Laos. We also found time to take a boat ride to the incredible Ting caves which house a number of Buddhist statues and shrines. All in all it was a great trip!

SAILers and friends in front of the Nam Ngum Dam.

My Goodness! Week four already!

It feels like so much has happened in the last seven days. I can hardly think that I am already half-way through the program. I am positive I will be sad to leave when I have to. It is difficult to describe but I think Amy said it best, “I love speaking Lao!”

This past week we finally got out of the city. Going to a Lao Phuan village was a great way to relax and have some fun. Somewhere during our walk over and across the rice fields and up a hill of a single massive rock I felt pretty darn good. We didn’t really get to fish much, but I enjoyed sitting in a boat on the lake and watching an old guy throw a fishing net over and over again uselessly. At night there was music, food and great revelry.

What could top this during the drudgery of the work week? At the National Library on Tuesday, I started studying the ancient Lao Tam script used for writing palm leaf manuscripts. This will allow me to advance my research and read many of the manuscripts available on the Library’s website: Laomanuscripts.net. Also, my Achaan is a wicked Khene player who can blow with the best of ‘em.

Next week, I leave for the conference!

This past Sunday the SAIL group went to view a small dramatic performance of the Lao classical epic Sang Sinxay. The kids who acted out this one scene were not the best performers of the school as the stars were in Japan for a show there. They didn’t all know their lines enough, so they had to read them. But, this was not to say it wasn’t something special.

Before I went I wasn’t aware that the lady in charge of this drama school was none other than Dara Viravong Kanlaya, the daughter of the late Maha Sila Viravong – one of the great scholars of Laos. It was amazing for me to meet her and to be able to share in her work, even only as an audience member.

But the epic Sang Sinxay is not alone. In fact, according to the imminent James Chamberlin Laos has one of the richest literary heritages, per capita, in the world. It is maddening to see the condition today then, of people who see their language as worth less than English or Thai. Apparently in Lao language studies at the National University there were so few students that in order to encourage enrollment the German government had to offer scholarships.

This is not just English language imperialism, because Lao surveyed read Thai and Vietnamese more than their own language. It goes far deeper than that. Its a sad fact that if no one reads Sang Sinxay, or Nang Phom Hom, or Thao Huang, Thao Cheuang then these masterpieces will be lost. It may be something that goes right along with the death of minority languages in the world, but its difficult to see it happening right before your eyes.

Not to leave off on this gloomy note, I am excited to be visiting the village this weekend and to finally get out of Vientiane. It seems like a very unusual place compared to the rest of Laos. But, I guess I’ll find out!

It has only been three full days since I’ve arrived in Laos but it feels as if it has been much longer. Rather than being a sleepy town like I’ve always read Viang Chan is so much more than that. The first night we landed in the city was such a different experience from anything I expected. We were taken to a great restaurant in town, by such friendly people I’ve never met! Then we relaxed at the guest house which is along Suphanouvong Road (i think).

The second day I woke up at 6:00 am – I barely could sleep from the excitement. I think everyone got up early that day. I started my language courses with Achaan Bounmy and my fellow pupil Phouthasack. We both have a lot to learn, but it seems like we can really help each other. When studying language it always seems that the individual student’s needs are so unique and I think you can see that from each of our strengths and weaknesses.

The best experiences and lessons I’ve had yet have come from wandering around the city and talking to people. I haven’t quite mastered the bargaining process – but after meeting up with last year’s SAILer, Amy Bowers, she haggled with a tuk-tuk driver and then rode up front with him to have a conversation! The best part as I’ve said is that the whole city is my class room.