We finally had some rain this week to cool off the city. Walking yesterday, I didn’t instantly break into sweat! I have been exploring the city more and more as time goes on and I really have to say I prefer the outskirts to the down-town area. Being down-town I see so many back-packers and other unscrupulous dealings that I am always glad to return. I just wish there were more Lao restaurants near our guest-house!
This week I started volunteering at the National Library. I had wanted to work with the Lao Manuscript Preservation program (Laomanuscripts.net) but I realized I did not have any skills that would contribute. The director of the Library, Aachaan Bounleut did offer me access however, so I am feverishly trying to find a teacher for the Lao tham script in order to read the palm leaf manuscripts.
For me, it is very interesting to see the intellectual life of Vieng Chan. I understand that the country needs so much and some may think it is frivolous of me to work in a library instead of offering more pragmatic help, but I believe in what I’m doing. In a way I think the country can’t help itself until it knows itself. Many at LAC and elsewhere are studying other languages and reading other literature, but I haven’t found anyone who can name their favorite Lao author. Studying other societies is a noble occupation, but not before yourselves! Only Lao will ever understand Lao the way its authors and artists can, so I hope that my work at the Library will be a small contribution to this goal. Next week I hope to travel to the National University, until then – Xok Dee Der!
As I close out my second week in Laos, I am comforted by a sense of familiarity–with the people and places of Vientiane. I continue to meet new people daily at the Lao American College (LAC) who have invited us to a couple of their events including a July 4th celebration. It will be interesting to see what they come up with. Although I feel very Lao, I am constantly reminded of my difference. True, I am not a Lao national nor have I mastered all of the nuances of colloquial Lao but my “American-ness” seems easily detectable. This fact has given me an even greater appreciation for the Lao people and its culture because it has been challenging for me, forcing me to rethink what I thought I knew about being Lao and being American for that matter. I am trying to absorb everything I can in and out of class. I’m so fortunate to be surrounded by so many willing “teachers.”
I started volunteering two days ago at Sihom Primary School. The school had closed down due to lack of students and poor administration, but Noi Sengsourigna (the director of the Sengsourigna Children’s Music and Cultural Center) was able to get a classroom reopened for me to teach some of the underprivileged neighborhood children English. Thus far, it has been a rewarding experience. The children are so eager to learn despite their unfortunately home lives. I only hope my limited time with them will give them some hope. I love how the students greet me when I arrive and politely ask to leave when they depart. This is something I will surely share with my community when I return to Milwaukee.
Athith, our primary language partner, has been great! A few days ago, he took us to a restaurant that served Lao food. It was incredible! I love how much Ryan loves Tam Mak Hung and how Sack, Toby and Natalie are just so positive about everything. The place was called Mieng Chao Kao, about at 10-15 walk from the guesthouse. This weekend was supposed to be our trip to the countryside but that has been postponed. Instead, we’ll check out Sinxay Drama Club. I’m looking forward to it as acting is a secret love of mine.
Take Care!
