June 27, 2010

Five Favorites

I’ve been known to be very long-winded and to go off on many tangents. Although it might be fun for some I feel like if I am like that in this blog, I will confuse you so instead, I will post about FIVE things in each post. Although every day can’t be roses and sunshine, I want to look back at this adventure and see the beauty of Laos and the people shine through. I really do believe that I am the master of my fate and I am determined to make the most of this program.

For this post – FIVE FAVORITES:

1. Favorite Restaurant – Last night the whole group got together and walked to a Lao restaurant nearby. It’s actually pretty rare that we are ALL together so it was a nice change of pace. Plus, it was such a nice night since it has finally started to rain here in VTE. We have been fortunate to have been taken to many fabulous places to eat and although I have only been here for 13 days, I am confident in putting this restaurant on my list of Top Five Favorite Restaurants. The food and atmosphere is excellent and it is quite inexpensive. The nam khao and papaya salad here are the best I have tasted in Laos so far! As usual, we laughed a lot and it was a good time.

2. Favorite Fun Moment – The reason I am here in VTE (and a participant of SAIL) is so I can learn about my culture. I know I have a lot to learn and like a sponge, I am trying to soak up as much as I can. I have been introduced to some incredibly beautiful people including Noi. She runs a place that teaches the Lao way of life – custom, dance, mannerisms, etc. The second time I went to visit her place; the kids did another performance for us and invited us to dance with them. It was a lot of fun and I loved how happy they all looked when dancing. I hope they never lose that hope in their eyes.

3. Favorite Breakfast Food – Most of you know that I’m not a morning person, but amazingly I’m usually up by 6:30 (even when I want to sleep in!) so I usually get ready for the day and head across the street and go to this tiny place that has the best rice noodle soup. Although I try to mix up my morning foods, this place will always be my favorite place. We went there the first morning and I haven’t stopped going yet.

4. Favorite Teacher – Achaan Hommala, of course! She’s my Lao teacher and I enjoy her very much. I know I can’t write or read that well and she has been really good about allowing both Ake and I to do both as much as possible during class. She’s awesome about taking questions and giving examples for better comprehension.

5. Favorite Activity – This week was the first week of the new term for LAC students so it was nice to finally make some more friends. We’ve had lunch a few times with some this week and then I really enjoy going to the LAC Center to meet up with them before class.

June 27, 2010

End of 2nd Wknd

Today marks the end of my second week in Laos. It seems that time goes by so fast, yet it feels as though I’ve been here for a longer than two weeks. With my cousins coming to visit all the way from Pakse, it has made it easier for me to converse in Lao since they don’t really speak English all too well. It’s relieving to know that they understand where I come from and are more than willing to help with my homework.

Right now I am going to be doing some volunteer work at the good old LAC (Lao American College) with helping students with their English. I am excited to be doing this because I’ll be able to have more of a connection with the students at the school I’m attending. I also get to be around Lao students my age speaking Lao which makes me want to speak even more.

I am getting more and more used to the Lao alphabet with its many different tones, vowels, and confusing to hear consonants. I hope to be writing more fluently as time passes by.

Recently I’ve been noticing as I’ve gotten to know new people from time to time, they always ask me what ethnicity I am. Confused as I already am, I tell them that I am Lao. Responding with confusion back, they tell me that I don’t really look Lao but either Chinese or Japanese. This idea that majority of people I run into say that perplexes every time it crosses my mind.

But either way, it’s a blessing to be here at this moment and to be able to look at all the wonderful marvels like the That Luang stupa and the fabulous downtown scene.

June 25, 2010

Intellectuals in Vieng Chan

We finally had some rain this week to cool off the city. Walking yesterday, I didn’t instantly break into sweat! I have been exploring the city more and more as time goes on and I really have to say I prefer the outskirts to the down-town area. Being down-town I see so many back-packers and other unscrupulous dealings that I am always glad to return. I just wish there were more Lao restaurants near our guest-house!

This week I started volunteering at the National Library. I had wanted to work with the Lao Manuscript Preservation program (Laomanuscripts.net) but I realized I did not have any skills that would contribute. The director of the Library, Aachaan Bounleut did offer me access however, so I am feverishly trying to find a teacher for the Lao tham script in order to read the palm leaf manuscripts.

For me, it is very interesting to see the intellectual life of Vieng Chan. I understand that the country needs so much and some may think it is frivolous of me to work in a library instead of offering more pragmatic help, but I believe in what I’m doing. In a way I think the country can’t help itself until it knows itself. Many at LAC and elsewhere are studying other languages and reading other literature, but I haven’t found anyone who can name their favorite Lao author. Studying other societies is a noble occupation, but not before yourselves! Only Lao will ever understand Lao the way its authors and artists can, so I hope that my work at the Library will be a small contribution to this goal. Next week I hope to travel to the National University, until then – Xok Dee Der!

June 25, 2010

Week Two

As I close out my second week in Laos, I am comforted by a sense of familiarity–with the people and places of Vientiane.  I continue to meet new people daily at the Lao American College (LAC) who have invited us to a couple of their events including a July 4th celebration. It will be interesting to see what they come up with. Although I feel very Lao, I am constantly reminded of my difference. True, I am not a Lao national nor have I mastered all of the nuances of colloquial Lao but my “American-ness” seems easily detectable. This fact has given me an even greater appreciation for the Lao people and its culture because it has been challenging for me, forcing me to rethink what I thought I knew about being Lao and being American for that matter. I am trying to absorb everything I can in and out of class. I’m so fortunate to be surrounded by so many willing “teachers.”

I started volunteering two days ago at Sihom Primary School. The school had closed down due to lack of students and poor administration, but Noi Sengsourigna (the director of the Sengsourigna Children’s Music and Cultural Center) was able to get a classroom reopened for me to teach some of the underprivileged neighborhood children English. Thus far, it has been a rewarding experience. The children are so eager to learn despite their unfortunately home lives. I only hope my limited time with them will give them some hope. I love how the students greet me when I arrive and politely ask to leave when they depart. This is something I will surely share with my community when I return to Milwaukee.

Athith, our primary language partner, has been great! A few days ago, he took us to a restaurant that served Lao food. It was incredible! I love how much Ryan loves Tam Mak Hung and how Sack, Toby and Natalie are just so positive about everything. The place was called Mieng Chao Kao, about at 10-15 walk from the guesthouse. This weekend was supposed to be our trip to the countryside but that has been postponed. Instead, we’ll check out Sinxay Drama Club. I’m looking forward to it as acting is a secret love of mine.

Take Care!

June 21, 2010

6/20

Johnny, Me, Thao, and Dan. My Mother’s side of the family.

Now starts the second week of my adventure in Laos. This summer marks my second time visiting Laos since I was 13 years old. It was such a blessing for my cousins, Thao and Johnny to come all the way from Pakse to visit me. I would say that Thao, although only 26,  is like an Aunt to me the way she always makes sure I do my homework, brush my teeth, etc. I have not seen these two sine my last visit. They have been helping me to figure out the alphabet with its many tone rules and pronunciations. I must say, that learning the alphabet is a little difficult for me to pick up quickly since the Lao language is a tonal language, but that’s not stopping me from trying my absolute best to perfect my speaking skills!

June 20, 2010

SAILers’ First week in Laos

The four 2010 SAILers – Akarath, Toby, Ryan and Phouthasack have started their classes as the first week during Tuesday 15th to Friday 18th of June. I first met with them when they arrived at the Vientiane International Airport (Wattay airport) on Monday evening (14th) this week.

In the following morning – Tuesday 15th, the group started with an orientation for two hours regarding the Lao-American College area and facilities, school staff, teachers and several volunteer students at the college. I also attended this meeting. Ms. Ginny gave a warm welcome and nice talk with us. And there was a session for small group conversation in which 2 or 3 people talking about each other’s background and interests.

From that day afternoon, the SAILers began to have their classes on Lao language, Lao history and culture. The subjects are taught by 3 teachers from the Faculty of Letters and Mass Media of the National University of Laos(NUOL). Achaan Hommala and Bounmy for Lao laguage and Achaan Bounleuth for Lao history and culture. So far they have learned Lao language for 8 hours and history/ culture for 3 hours only. Any how, it seems that all of them has improved their Lao language – Akarath and Toby are more fluent in speaking, and Phouthasack and Ryan speak Lao faster and clear pronunciation. Young students brilliant and quick-learners!

Yesterday, I took them downtown for sight-seeing tour in Vientiane. They have visited Thatluang Stupa, Ho Prakeo Museum, Wat Simeuang  and the Morning market. I think there are still other points of interest in Vientiane area for them to visit, especially the traces of Lao ancient history. And those will be taken as the supplemented visits to the history lessons, according to Achaan Bounleuth – their history and culture teacher.

June 18, 2010

First time in Laos

It has only been three full days since I’ve arrived in Laos but it feels as if it has been much longer. Rather than being a sleepy town like I’ve always read Viang Chan is so much more than that. The first night we landed in the city was such a different experience from anything I expected. We were taken to a great restaurant in town, by such friendly people I’ve never met! Then we relaxed at the guest house which is along Suphanouvong Road (i think).

The second day I woke up at 6:00 am – I barely could sleep from the excitement. I think everyone got up early that day. I started my language courses with Achaan Bounmy and my fellow pupil Phouthasack. We both have a lot to learn, but it seems like we can really help each other. When studying language it always seems that the individual student’s needs are so unique and I think you can see that from each of our strengths and weaknesses.

The best experiences and lessons I’ve had yet have come from wandering around the city and talking to people. I haven’t quite mastered the bargaining process – but after meeting up with last year’s SAILer, Amy Bowers, she haggled with a tuk-tuk driver and then rode up front with him to have a conversation! The best part as I’ve said is that the whole city is my class room.

June 17, 2010

First Day

6/15/2010

A couple days ago I started my first day of classes and I am happy to say I learned so much. It began with all of us meeting Ginny, the founder of Lao-American College. She started out by filling us in on the education system of people here in Laos. I don’t remember the exact numbers, but from what she was telling me the illiteracy rate is very, very low. It shocked me to learn how much students struggle here to get their education. After seeing what obstacles and challenges they face is inspiration in its finest moment.

Then I started my first day of class. I am so eager to study in order to become more proficient in Lao and learn about the country. After school was dismissed I walked around town to get more of the feel for Vientiane. Everywhere I walk I am always greeted with sincere interest and heartfelt smiles. It warms my heart every time I step out my door and the first thing that brightens my day is not the sun, but the peoples faces.

June 17, 2010

Home

As cliche as it may sound, “Home is where the heart is” and I feel very at home here in Laos. It’s been three years since my return and although much has changed here in VTE not much has really changed at all. All the SAILers arrived five days ago and we all seem to be adjusting well to this new atmosphere that we are calling home for the next two months.

The accommodations are great. The guesthouse we are staying at was also used by last year’s SAILers. All the staff have welcomed us with open arms and I feel very fortunate to have met so many wonderful people already. Although it is not in the heart of VTE, it is near many great places to eat and best of all, it is only three minutes away from the Lao-American College we are currently attending. I can actually see the rooftop from my 3rd floor room.

Classes are going well. Akarath and I are in the same class. Our Achaan is great at answering all of our questions and translating all the difficult academic words we seem to want to know. I am picking up a lot already as we have jumped head first into reading and writing since both Akarath and I are very proficient speakers.

Yesterday, I went up to a girl, who was sitting on the steps, to ask her for help with reading my homework. She was excellent at taking all my questions and answering them to the best of her abilities. We also got to meet up with Akarath’s cousins who took us out to eat and to explore the shops near the Mekong. I am shocked and excited by everyone’s positive responses to our arrival. I look forward to meeting many more people as the Lao-American College will start their new term again on Monday.

June 17, 2010

Week One

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2010 SAILers with their teachers at the Lao-American College

Sabaidee Tuk Tuk Khon!

The fact that we are in Laos is still quite unbelievable. Although we have been here for less than a week, it feels like we have been here for much longer. I attribute the sentiment to the warm-hearted greetings and accommodating manner of nearly everyone I’ve encountered, notably from the welcoming party (headed by Loung Xuan, our program leader) at Wattay Airport on Sunday evening. On Monday, we began with an orientation at the Lao-American College, where we met Ginny and were formally introduced to our language teachers, Achaan Bounmy and Achaan Hommala, and our History and Culture teacher, Achaan Bounleth, all of whom are accomplished scholars and just about some of the nicest people ever!  I’m finding that there is so much that I have yet to learn and learn anew. Athith, our awesome language partner, and Amy, one of last year’s SAIlers, have been so gracious in helping us find our way around Vientiane. Although we’ve taken a few rides in the tuk tuk’s and in the “big cars,” I still feel a bit disoriented when I venture away from the area of our guesthouse and the Lao-American College. I’m hoping all that will change in the coming days. I’m also finding that things are a bit more relaxed here, no one is quite in a rush to get anywhere. Perhaps, that, too will change when it starts raining. People say it’s unusually hot this year. It’s not that bad. Then again, I am in this internet cafe under the air conditioner right now. I’m sure my disposition will change as soon as I get about my day. I am still learning the lay of the land, finding the best places to eat, where to shop, what to say (correctly and politely), and of increasing importance, where to wash my delicates.  I hope everyone is doing well. I’m doing great and looking forward to what’s still to come. Oh, I am getting darker, but my pants are still a bit snug.

June 13, 2010

Bangkok, Fears, and My Goal

Bangkok, Thailand

your experience is not what it is, but what you make of it

1:55 am

With extreme jetlag, my body is adjusting to the different time patterns and I can’t quite get to sleep yet.

Here I am in the city of angels as promised! Wooh, Krung Tep!

We’re in Thailand (finally). After the seemingly eternal 17 hours of flying from Taipei, I’m glad we finally made it next door to Laos.

According to the schedule, Vinya had someone set up to drop us off to the Silver Gardens hotel.

So little did we know that as the van drove up into the driveway, there seemed to be a farmers market happening literally right next door to the hotel. It was packed with vendors busy selling their items, the chitter chatter of people, and the roaring of car horns and Thai music.

One bowl of Kao Bun – 10 baht = $0.30

Four sticks of barbeque steak – 20 baht = $0.60

One Bowl of rice w/ fried chicken, cucumbers, and soup – 25 baht = $0.75

Ten fried French bread sticks = 20 baht =$0.60

So far for only two days, I have eaten, with a full stomach for less than $3.00.

To get a regular meal back home, it costs almost five dollars, per meal! And there’s no guarantee you’ll get full either.

Paying for food never tasted so good until now.

Even though we weren’t in Laos yet, it indeed felt we were very close to getting there.

As Toby and I checked in, a hotel worker handed her a sign-in sheet. Again with the different time frames, Toby and I were both off about what the actual date was here in Southeast Asia. Nervously, I tried to ask the person behind the counter, in Thai, what the date was. But, the response given back was a look of confusion because of my very rusty and poorly spoken Lao and Thai grammar – right after I would shy away in embarrassment.

This and other similar experiences while trying to buy things in the market lead me back to what my ultimate fear was: my inability of speaking the language and feeling outcast from the rest. Also, it didn’t help that I was carrying around a camera video taping all the items up for display.

I can’t describe it exactly in words… but whenever I can’t understand when someone is speaking Lao or Thai or if I’m not understand when I speak to them, I just feel instantly ashamed of myself. I look Lao, I feel Lao, but when it comes out of my mouth, things start to look ugly.

I know this is me being negative, but it’s just that in my mind I feel like I should understand every single word regardless whether I was raised in America or not. I grew up with the language for 18 years and still I can’t fluently speak or understand it. Back home in the states, people treat as if I’m too Asian. There’s an empty margin between the two worlds and I’m trapped in between them.

However… my ultimate fear also has turned into my ultimate goal, which is what the SAIL program is providing: to learn more about my parents’ culture, language, and way of life. In the next day I’ll be in Laos and I’ll be given the rare opportunity to experience all of these amazing things the SAIL is offering! Years ago I never imagined a program like this ever had the slightest chance of existing. But today, I am grateful and want to take as in as much as I can in the next several weeks.

Turning the clock back to when Vinya was dropping us off at the airport in San Francisco. He reminded Toby and I that during the trip you have two options: you can either choose to learn as much as you can; or you can choose to learn as little as you can. Bottom line, your experience is not what it is, but what you make of it.

And I hope to make something that will be unforgettable.

IMG_0674Wat in Thailand. Fun stuff! Can’t wait to see all the ones in Laos!

June 13, 2010

Second year SAILers

2010 SAIlers in front of the San Francisco city hall.

2010 SAIlers in front of the San Francisco city hall.

2010 SAILers in SAn Francisco

2010 SAILers in San Francisco

This year’s SAILers, Phouthasack, Toby, Akarath, and Ryan are all leaving for Laos either this evening or tomorrow evening. It’s been exciting, stressful, and above all rewarding to work with the four SAILers in the past months.

The plane tickets were too high, almost $1700 for each student and it took what seemed forever to search for them. One of the SAILers lost his passport and had to apply for a new one on the departure date at the San Francisco Passport Agency.

Despite it all, I am proud of these young and energetic students who will embark on their journey back to the land of their forefathers. Listening to Phouthasack, Toby, and Akarath talked about how they grew up lonely and isolated because there were very few Lao families around or because they were different, reminded me of my own upbringings. Ryan’s desire to learn more about the country that he is so passionate about also reveals the important work that we do—to provide an opportunity for young scholars to engage in Lao Studies.

Since this is the second year, we have improved on a few things to make SAIL better and more enjoyable for everyone. First, we have included a home stay component to the second month of the program. Second, we have hired a very knowledgeable in-country program leader, Mr. Xuan. Third, the classes have also improved. We are gearing the lessons to the need of the students: only two students per teacher.

We hope to get more students next year, but understand that the $5,000 fee is a little high for some. The good news is that we will keep the fee at the same level even if we have to subsidize the cost. As long as there is a demand for SAIL we will find a way somehow; a big donation would help greatly though ;)

In about four weeks I will be visiting the SAILers before taking them all to the 3rd International Conference on Lao Studies at Khon Kaen University, Thailand. I look forward to seeing them again and to learn all the wonderful things they have done half way through SAIL. I feel so fortunate that the Center for Lao Studies started this program and truly feel like a proud parent to have Phouthasack, Toby, Akarath, and Ryan as 2010 SAILers.

June 12, 2010

San Francisco, Tai Pei, Thailand, and soon Laos!

A  lot has happened in the past two days. Last night, I decided to spend the few remaining hours to get as much of the San Francisco scene as possible by taking my first ever visit to Chinatown.

Chinatown – one of those places I always see and hear about on the media, yet one of the places I’ve never been too……..until now!

It was great seeing all the different boutiques and gift stores in Chinatown. While venturing further into the neighborhood, I spotted these two Chinese models posing in the middle of the street in front of an entourage of flashing cameramen. I couldn’t help but take some pictures as well. Hahaha.

After getting done exploring all of Chinatown, I headed back to the hotel to get ready to head to the airport with Vinya for my 13 hr flight to Taiwan.

And now… here I am – waiting at my gate to depart to Bangkok! Also, I’m sitting on the floor here laughing at Toby because her laptop can’t connect to the internet  ;)

June 11, 2010

Orientation

Photo on 2010-06-11 at 18.58I’m finally in San Francisco which means that Laos is just around the corner! Although this has been a tiresome day, it was great to finally meet the other SAILers and a couple SAILers from last summer. At our orientation, we discussed what we could expect in Laos and to experience everything with an open mind. We also had the chance to check out the Civc Center. Ai Vinya pointed out some of the buildings that were in the area while many a dramatic scenes unfolded around us.  The trip to Laos is going to be great.  The other SAILers seem like a fun bunch, an eager group ready for the learning and fun to begin. I can’t wait to come back a little darker, a little thinner, and whole lot more knowledgeable!

June 11, 2010

Leaving On A Jet Plane

“All my bags are packed and I’m ready to go…”

Today has been a full day of pre-departure orientation. It’s been nice to meet everyone and hear some stories from a few of last years SAILers. They have given us a lot of good information, but I think I will take their advice and go into this program with no expectations. This program will end up being everything I make of it. I am excited to share my experiences via this blog and look forward to everyone’s comments as a way to stay connected with my friends and family during this program.

The day has finally arrived. Sack and I are leaving on a jet plane tonight for Thailand. We are staying in Bangkok for the night and have the following day to explore before we meet up with the other two SAILers and leave for Laos.

“Cause I’m leavin’ on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again.”

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