July 23, 2009

I CAN READ LAO!

Drinking tea and having fun!

Drinking tea and having fun!

…but I can’t really understand it all. Which is ok, I guess. Vocabulary has been the most difficult part of learning Lao so far. There are so many different ways to say the same thing; its hard to keep track of them all. I get really frustrated sometimes because of my inability to retain all of the words, but I have to stop and think that I have only been studying for a month. It would be impossible to know all of the words at this point. Therefore, I bought a dictionary to remedy my vocabulary problem. It is my new bible. I take it with me wherever I go. Whilst my vocabulary is growing everyday I find that I am able to understand more and more speech. I’m also trying to speak Lao with as little an accent as possible. I feel that learning it incorrectly will only create a bad habit which will become problematic in the future. Apparently I’m doing well. My language partner says I have a “Siang Vieng” (Vientiane accent). It is important to be heard and understood correctly. Especially with a language like Lao where if you mispronounce a word you could accidentally say something different and which could sometimes be offensive.

We have come so far since we first arrived. It’s strange to think that I only started learning Lao a few weeks ago. I don’t even want to think about leaving soon. I will miss all the new friends I have made here. Its been such a wonderful experience so far.

July 23, 2009

Not Ready to Leave Yet

A view of the Mekong River.

A view of the Mekong River.

“It doesn’t matter how much you have if you don’t have anyone to share it with,” these are the words my mother instilled in me since I was a child. I have always lived by these words, but have never witnessed their true meaning until this past week when I visited the village of my birthplace.

I arrived in Houayxay, Bokeo province, last Thursday, July 16, 2009. I was welcomed by my aunt, uncle and my two younger cousins. As I walked towards the crowd of people waiting for their loved ones, I wondered to myself if I would be able to pick out the aunt that I had only seen in a photo that my mother had mailed to me before my trip to Laos. Before I knew it, I heard my name being called. It was my aunt and uncle who had picked me out from the group because they had recognized my face as that of my mother. The smile on their faces made me realize how great this visit was going to be. During the almost two-hour ride towards home, we talked as though we’d known each other forever. My aunt and uncle joked about how they spotted me at the airport not only because I had my mother’s face, but also because I had my mother’s height and how little I’d changed since I had left them. Once I arrived at my grandmother’s house, I found her with her head looking out of the side window of the house. The glint in her eyes and smile on her now very small framed face was priceless. I could not have asked for a better welcoming. My family knew I was coming so they made sure there was food ready for me to eat and as you all know, I was very excited to see it and couldn’t ask for anything else. They even went out and purchased a new mattress for me to sleep on. For the rest of the day, I had visits from relatives who were curious to see how this once round-faced, bald little girl had changed. Everyone asked the same question when they arrived, “Is this E Nang Yaeng?”, as that is what I am called in the village. Everyone had stories to share about things I used to do as a child, the friends I used to run around with and the story of the day my parents, siblings and I left. I could have sat around all day listening to their stories.

I stayed in Muang Mom only six days, but I have to say that I’ve never had a more relaxed, carefree time as I did there. I spent most of my days riding a bike around the village with one of my little cousins sitting behind me, making visits to homes of relatives who saw us and called me to stop by. Every stop I made, I was offered something to drink and anything they had to eat and of course more stories to listen to. Because I lost my biological father once we arrived to the United States, I had very little memory of him, but the stories everyone had to share made me understand where I got my personality from. I would have never known this about myself if I hadn’t had this opportunity to hear his stories directly for myself. When it was time for me to leave their homes, everyone would always apologize and tell me they wish they had more to give me. I was amazed at this gesture because if it was an outsider looking in, they would see it the other way around and that I should be the one saying sorry for not being able to offer more. Although every family in the village were hard-working farmers, they could not be any more humble than they were for having enough to live off and good family and friends to spend their time with. This is something that really touches my heart and I admire a lot. My visit was during rice planting season, so I learned that if you were done planting on your land, you would help others in the village.  The way they saw it was that you are not finished until everyone else is too. The sense of community they had just blew my mind. Most of my mornings and afternoons were spent exploring the village. In the evenings, I spent my time at home just hanging around with the family. I loved playing with my little cousins and especially loved it when I could just sit outside watching my grandmother feed the many chickens she was raising. I also enjoyed hanging out with everyone in the kitchen as my aunts prepared meals over the clay stove they used. We would all sit and eat together. I don’t remember the last time I had the chance to sit down with my family to a home cooked meal, since my family lives so far away from me.

Due to the fact that my cell phone couldn’t get any reception up in the North, I had nothing to distract me from being home and just taking everything in day by day. I loved being surrounded by everything Lue. I even think I can speak the language better now. Everyone was surprised and happy that I could eat everything they cooked for me and that I was able to make conversation. This is thanks to my mother. I feel very fortunate and blessed that she didn’t let me forget and lose my background. During such a short trip, I learned so much about myself and my family and even got a couple pictures of myself as a child during my time in Laos that I had never seen before. I even learned that the village I was born in is right across from Myanmar and that it was part of the Golden Triangle; I would sit at the Mekong River banks some afternoons and just look over and down the river and wonder what people on the other side were doing or how they were living. This trip also made me realize how little time I have here and how much I still want to see and learn about Laos. There are still so many more places and different groups in this rich country that I would love to explore and visit. I am already trying to plan my next trip back.

July 23, 2009

Dam Naa: Rice Planting

SAILers dok kaa (putting the rice seedlings for transplanting).

SAILers dok kaa (pulling the rice seedlings for transplanting).

SAILers dam naa (planting rice).

SAILers dam naa (planting rice).

Dam Naa: Rice Planting
This past Saturday, we SAILers once again had the fortunate opportunity to go out to the countryside and learn about rice cultivation and fisheries. A small independent group organized by PADETC, whose vision is to provide active learning opportunities in the areas of rice cultivation and fisheries within the city-limits of Vientiane, Laos. We climbed into a van and drove out to the country side, a 30 minute drive outside the city. Soon we came to some rice fields. In fact, when we arrived at the place, our van got stuck in the mud and everyone present had to assist in helping the driver out of the mud.
As I sat and listened to the organizers and directors of the project talk about their project and their vision of providing Lao people opportunities to farm their land, feed their families, as well as providing opportunities for future income, I was inspired by their passion and hard work. They expressed that they experience joy in being farmers in Laos, and that life as a farmer is good and easy going, “sabay.” I was happy to hear that they greatly enjoyed the quietness of the countryside and that their daily work was something they enjoyed doing and have a sense of pride in. I love that their life was simple and not complicated with the everyday demands of the city. City people come and volunteer to assist in the rice planting and harvesting, a communal activity building new friendships. Many older people come out to the countryside and take up rice planting as a hobby so that they can do something purposeful and get some exercise.
Some SAILers with their enthusiaam and energy dove right in and began planting alongside the farmers. Knee deep in brown gooey muck, we planted one small field with rice. I unfortunately did not venture into the field, but through watching those who participated, I grew a deeper understanding and appreciation of how and where rice comes from. Afterwards we went to the fishery area where we tried to net the fish. We eventually went out and checked the fish hooks in the water near the rice fields. What I loved about the Lao farming was that fish were living in the rice paddies and around the rice paddies they grew herbs, trees, vegetables. Basically, your whole meal is right outside your door. They also raised chicken and cows. So imagine, as a Lao farmer, you grow your rice and vegetables and farm raise chicken, cows, and fish. What we farmed and collected that day we ate. The women prepared a great feast of bamboo shoot soup, eggplant sauce, rice, and grilled fish. It was a great feeling to eat what you just picked right out of the garden or water and how fresh it all was, not to mention how delicious!! There is a sense of great appreciation to know that we ate what our hands, sweat and passion helped provide…nutrition for the heart, soul and of course the stomach!

July 23, 2009

Shoeless Thief

Prior to coming to Laos I had the expectations of learning all about being Lao. Five weeks into my stay here, I realize that I don’t know much about the culture and mannerisms. So for the next 3 weeks I am going to hang out with the local Lao and ask lots of questions and take lots of pictures…..I will post again….on a mission!

Flash forward: So I am back and I learned about the “nop” or “wai” (bowing your head in a gesture of respect).  First, “nop” with your hands together placed at your chest to greet strangers or friends. “Nop” with your hands together with your thumb placed at your chin to greet elders or teachers or people with respected in the Lao community. Third, “nop” with your thumb at your 3rd eye (in the middle of your eyes) for the Buddha.

I also didn’t know that there are certain ways to speak to a monk.

On another note, my Lao friend got robbed yesterday night. The thief came into the house and stole a few items. Her sister saw the thief and yelled for her father. The thief fled after hearing her voice. The funny thing was that the thief was cautious to take his shoes off upon entering their house. In the morning, the pair of shoes led them to the thief because the neighbors recognized his shoes!

Bad news again…my 16 gig flash drive adopted a virus…so now I can’t access any of my pictures or videos. =(

July 23, 2009

Spoken vs. Written Lao

One reason that I am very thankful that I came to Laos to learn Lao language is that I am much more comfortable speaking Lao than writing or reading Lao. Of course, I would like to be able to read and write just as well as I speak, but I am so glad it is not the other way around.
For a long time, I studied Spanish very seriously. The language was introduced to the elementary schools when I was in fourth grade, and I chose to continue my studies through middle and high school. My freshman year of college I even lived in the Spanish speaking dorm, but I still feel that I cannot speak Spanish very well at all! Although I knew a lot of vocabulary, I never really could think of the conjugations on my feet. In effect, my speech would flow in s l o w m o t i o n. Although I could probably [painfully] read a book in Spanish, I think my speaking skills would fail me if I were to ever travel to a Spanish speaking country!
Actually living in Laos now, I know how important ant spoken language is. If I couldn’t speak well, everyday interactions would be so difficult; asking where the bathroom is, purchasing things at the market, telling the tuk-tuk where to take you. If these ordinary tasks were difficult, think about how terrifying it would be to get lost and not be able to ask for directions or what if there was an emergency? Yes, I still have very much to learn about Lao language, but I am thankful that I at least feel comfortable speaking what I know. I am sure that if I had studied in a classroom setting in the U.S., I would not be as comfortable speaking Lao as I am now. At least, I know that the writing and reading will always come eventually, especially if I study Lao in a classroom setting.
Sitting on a parked pick-up truck at our Guest House.

Sitting on a parked pick-up truck at our Guest House.

One reason that I am very thankful that I came to Laos to learn Lao is that I am much more comfortable speaking Lao than writing or reading it. Of course, I would like to be able to read and write just as well as I speak, but I am so glad it is not the other way around.

For a long time, I studied Spanish very seriously. The language was introduced to the elementary schools when I was in fourth grade, and I chose to continue my studies through middle and high school. My freshman year of college I even lived in the Spanish speaking dorm, but I still feel that I cannot speak Spanish very well at all! Although I knew a lot of vocabulary, I never really could think of the conjugations on my feet. In effect, my speech would flow in s l o w m o t i o n. Although I could probably [painfully] read a book in Spanish, I think my speaking skills would fail me if I were to ever travel to a Spanish speaking country!

Actually living in Laos now, I know how important spoken language is. If I couldn’t speak well, everyday interactions would be so difficult; asking where the bathroom is, purchasing things at the market, telling the tuk-tuk driver where to take you. If these ordinary tasks were difficult, think about how terrifying it would be to get lost and not be able to ask for directions or what if there was an emergency? Yes, I still have very much to learn about the Lao language, but I am thankful that I at least feel comfortable speaking what I know. I am sure that if I had studied in a classroom setting in the U.S., I would not be as comfortable speaking Lao as I am now. At least, I know that the writing and reading will always come eventually, especially if I study Lao in a classroom setting.