S A I L » 2009 » July

July 3, 2009

Dok Champa, Khaophansaa and Interviews – Sa!

Dok Champa, the national flower of Laos.

The SAILers participated in a Baci ceremony.

SAILers singing to Lao tunes at a local Karaoke bar in Vientiane, Laos.

SAILers and their language partners singing to Lao tunes at a local Karaoke bar in Vientiane, Laos.

A few of our SAILers at the Lao-American College.

A few of our SAILers, in their school uniform, at the Lao-American College campus.

Achaan Bounmy teaching the beginning Lao to the SAILers at the Lao-American College.

Achaan Viengsavanh teaching Lao to the SAILers at the Lao-American College.

Achaan Viengsavanh teaching intermediate Lao to the SAILers at the Lao-American College.

Hello blog readers and thanks for following our SAILers stories throughout their trip so far. We’re happy you’re following our words, and hope they are inspiring some of you to join us next year! As you’ll read in their recent blogs, lots has been said about some of our social activities this past week, so I won’t repeat them. They’ve been very busy with their UGrad friends because most will be departing soon and they’ve been trying to see them as much as they can before they leave. So I will concentrate more on the programmatic elements of the past week to give you an idea of how it’s developing.

I’m happy to report that the Beginning Class has learned the words to “Dok Champa!” They’ve gone from pretty much mastering reading and writing (Brandin is especially amazing in this respect) to singing! Achaan Bounmy is providing lots of different opportunities for them to learn, and I’m very happy about that. The Intermediate Class is very conversant and we’re pretty good at keeping our Achaan off-topic, so that we can learn about the culture, getting her opinions on everything from Lao-Thai relations, to Lao history, to the new Lao generation — all in Lao! Unfortunately, our reading and writing has suffered a bit, but we’ll catch up with the Beginners soon — just as they start catching up to our speaking ability. We are all learning a lot in our classes, but the challenge continues to be taking it out of the class into Lao society, since being a foreigner makes you an immediate English target.

Next week we will have our first language field trip to Ho Pra Keo — the original resting place of the famed Emerald Buddha which now resides at the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Then we will head to the Morning Market, all in an effort to get a cultural lesson in Lao, and apply it in the real world. Khaophansaa, or the beginning of Buddhist Lent, also starts next week and the Intermediate class will make traditional sweets (khao tom) at the home of our Achaan, and will also learn to make Khao Soy. The next morning I’m hoping to motivate the group to wake up early, put on their sinhs, and tak bat (make merit) to the monks at the temple. If we do, they will have real exposure to the religion and the people’s involvement in it — something which they have not had a lot of up to now. Last weekend I took them to Wat Sisaket, the only temple that was not burned to the ground by the Thais back in the 1880s and we walked around, amazed at the site of the thousands of Buddha statues. Inside the sim or sima we saw original frescoes that unfortunately, with lack of attention and upkeep, are faded and crumbling. We all sat there, after bowing to the Buddha, awestruck by the beauty of it all.

In our Lao History and Culture class, we’ve been reviewing the history of the kings (I think we’re up to Chao SaySetthathirath right about now) and I’ve asked our Achaan to put particular emphasis on the history of Luang Prabang next week before our big outing there. I’m very excited for the trip up North, although I think a few of the SAILers are uneasy about the 10 hour trip up winding roads in a bus. For me, another opportunity for them to do as the Lao do which is what this trip is all about. The scenery is beautiful, and hopefully they won’t be too queasy to enjoy it. I know they’re going to love the temples and historic sites there, and since I’ve heard there aren’t many foreigners there right now, hopefully they will have more opportunities to interact with the LP Lao. I’ve got a few plans to get the SAILers more involved in the trip, some of which involves them reading up on the sites and doing some planning in Lao!

I’m working on augmenting their education with talks from local experts. As you’ll read from Sandra, Mike Carroll gave us an incredibly informative talk on crop substitution and opium eradication in the North. He has lived in Laos for over 10 years and has vast experience on agriculture, challenges of getting crops to markets and local economics, and the ethnic minorities affected. He is also organizing a 4th of July picnic today of which we’ll be a part. CLS will have a booth there to expose expats and others to our program so they can hopefully spread the word to friends and family back home. Brandin and I will also speak about the program — following the Ambassador’s talk. The SAIL program has also gained exposure through recent interviews. Vatsana, Yaeng and I did our first interview in Lao with Radio France International (http://www.rfi.fr/actulo/articles/115/article_13990.asp) and back home, CLS Executive Dirctor, Dr. Vinya Sysamouth’s was also interviewed, and his interview could be found at http://www.rfi.fr/actulo/articles/115/article_13986.asp. Listen if you dare but don’t judge our Lao too harshly! The whole group also did an interview (in English) with a local Lao magazine, and Dr. Varisa, one of CLS advisory board members, also did an article for a Thai paper. SAILers going international!

Finally, a word about the volunteer positions. Sandra, Eileen and Amy are helping out at Donkoi Children’s Center three days a week, assisting in art projects, teaching English to the staff, and helping in the library (Eileen). I’m very excited for Yaeng and Vatsana who are also spending three days a week at Setthathirath hospital — a rare opportunity to work in a state institution. Yaeng shadows nurses and doctors doing rounds, and Vatsana has taken it upon herself to create her own project, interviewing mothers in the Mother-Child ward about their nutritional habits and raising children. They are expected to report their findings at the end, and I can’t wait to hear them! Vatsana and I also observed a newly created private center for autistic children funded entirely by their parents. They have teachers from Thailand to introduce physical, and some occupational therapy to them, and were very enthusiastic about Vatsana sharing her ideas based on her vast experience working with children with disabilities. Finally, Brandin is spending time with LAC students who need extra tutoring in English. He enjoys spending time with the students there, and I’m hoping it is also providing him the opportunity to learn a little Lao at the same time. He also recently purchased 2 pairs of fake designer shades, which will either scare them all off, or have them think he’s some sort of rockstar god.

More soon~

Posted in Author: Samantha, Culture, Laos | 2 Comments

July 3, 2009

Roll Out…

Tuk Tuk or Jumbo, a common mode of transportation in Laos.

Lots has been happening and we had an especially social week, so here is the break down. Sorry like I mentioned before I’m not much of a writer, but here goes.

Friday-we went karaoke at a Chinese Hotel and sang English, Lao and Thai songs…then we hit Club Romeo. The club is very different than what I remember in the past. They don’t have a dance floor just random stand up tables while people danced at the table. Of course us being the “Americans” that we are, started searching for the dance floor. We tried to make our own, but then they moved the chairs and tables back into place.

Sunday-We went to “Taad Moun” for a picnic, it was a very fun mini adventure outside the Capital. It wasn’t the cleanest river in the world, but Eileen, Yaeng, Phonh, Brandin, Samantha and I jumped right in just being a part of the river body floating fun. Sometime during the day Eileen got kidnapped by some high schoolers and went off, hopefully to learn a couple of Lao phrases. I sat out to sun bathe while locals singing songs flirted with the drifters.

Monday-We finally got our sinhs and now we can blend in. I just have to work on my tan!

Tuesday- Presentation by Mike Carroll “Working in Phongsaly in Opium Crop Substitution and Poverty Reduction or At Least Don’t make it Worse Projects” (funded by the US government/State Department). It was interesting to hear facts about efforts to curb drug production, and encourage crop substitution in Northern Laos.

Wednesday-Interview with local Lao Magazine, and Bowling.

I forget which days that we went out for food. But so far I have had about 5 “Khai Luuk” (chicken embryos). I have seen them but have never eaten them before. It was actually not that bad. Can’t wait to try “jumping shrimp.”

Next I’m going to try to rent a bike so that I can have mini adventures from the side roads. Lots to see…not much time to do!

Posted in Author: Sandra, Laos | 2 Comments

July 3, 2009

Taad Moun: Playing in the river

Traveling along the Lao country side.

On Sunday, the CLS entourage ventured out into the woods to commune with nature, a pastime that many local Lao people find bizarre and “unnatural.” We invited many of our U-graduates and language partners to join us on our little outing to Taad Moun, a small river on the outskirts of the city limits where brave venturous souls, (unlike myself) fared the small rapid-like water falls in tubes, plastic blow up life jackets and floaties. It turned out to be a nice day, we weren’t sure if we were going to go out to the “jungle” as it had rained terribly hard the night before and was still raining when we got up in the morning. It’s amazing we got up at all as the CLS entourage began our evening the night before at a karaoke club and sang our hearts out, (badly) to the tunes of American oldies, Lao and Thai ballads. There’s nothing grander and amusing than a bunch of tone deaf American singers, although Sandra held her own. After our soiree at the Karaoke club, we dared to continue the local night life and went dancing at a very popular club called Romeo, where all the music has the same thumping beat and the bass made your inner bodies vibrate. There were many different foreigners all gathered together along with the local people and jumping, grooving, body smacking and shaking to the music. There isn’t a designated dance floor, your group just circles themselves around a counter-like table where servers dressed like hip-hop dancers kept an eye on your group and collected empty glasses. I must say we were the most colorful or should I say the most creative and expressive dancers in the place. Of course, I couldn’t last as long as the young’uns. With ear drums busted and lungs filled with second-hand smoke, I was craving the comfort of my soft, (relatively speaking) bed. Samantha and I went home while the rest of the crew continued on to get food and returned home later. More power to the young at heart!

The next day we braved the elements and climbed into the van to take us to the river. As you know, it’s the rainy season and like I had said, it was raining when we got up. We had to travel on muddy quicksand-like roads and I could just imagine us pushing this van out of the mud if we got stuck. On many occasions during our drive there, I thought the van was a goner. The van driver was a maniac diver also!! What’s the hurry bop? He was speeding and would come right up behind these poor little motor bikes, blare his horn and fly by them. If I was on one of those bikes, I’m sure I would have a heart attack. The whole drive over was like riding one of the roller coasters at Six Flags Adventure Park, WITHOUT seatbelts. When we got there, it was a VERY interesting sight. The Lao people sure know how to have fun! It seems that they have the concept of Leisure down to an art. They played in the water, sang and serenaded swimmers and passer-bys, drank, and boy, do they eat!! At picnics, the Lao people eat bamboo soup, papaya salad, green bean salad, roasted fish, fruit and rice throughout the whole day. When do they not eat and how do they keep so thin?!!? I know how I keep thin, it’s called eating and upset stomach. The most extraordinary thing about swimming in Laos is that some people swim with all their clothes on. Shoes, socks, jeans and t-shirts. They just plop themselves in the water, sometimes with a cigarette, and sit in the water as if sitting in a Jacuzzi. It’s pretty hilarious of the mix of people; young, old, men, women, peddlers, and foreigners and the myriad of clothing articles. It’s like the circus meets Sea World. I would encourage anyone to join in the festivity and I hope I would be more adventurous in our next excursions. Cheers!

Posted in Author: Vatsana, Laos | 3 Comments

July 3, 2009

Fan Club!

Traffic in Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

I don’t get it. Why do all masculine products here include a whitening agent of some sort? Back in the States it’s GOOD to be a little tan (not a tanorexic though) whereas here they all want to be white(er)… like me heh. Everyone seems so intrigued by the way I look.

For example, Sunday we went to Taad Moun, a “waterfall” outside of Vientiene. It was our first unpaved rural road experience. It was raining. Wow, so much red mud. I was glad we didn’t get stuck because guess who would have been pushing had we have been. Yep, us. Anyway, there was this group of people across the water sitting under/on/around a tree playing guitar and singing songs. I was standing in the sun on the other side trying to dry off a little, and randomly some of the women started to take pictures of me. “Ok, that’s weird” I thought. They tried to be discrete about it at first but discretion was *not* one of their strong points. I thought it was funny so I did like the Romans. I started posing. I did a traditional “I’m Asian and I’m taking a picture” pose. They went crazy, and the guys started to improv a song. I think they said something like “you are so handsome, come hang out with us!”

Posted in Author: Brandin | 3 Comments

July 3, 2009

Don’t Speak English to me!

The American Center at the Lao-American College.

Being fluent in English is great. I could probably manage to go anywhere in the world never knowing a second language. I’ll never get lost in an airport with all the directions in English. I can always get a taste of home by turning on the TV to watch a movie or listen to songs I can actually comprehend. I am honored to know that so many students around the world are studying my native tongue, hence my willingness to help them learn. Although I am very grateful that I don’t have to question my knowledge of English, I have found that it makes learning Lao that much more difficult.
For some time I have wanted to study in a country where I would not know the language spoken to see what it feels like to be in that position. Being here with a group of six other English speakers, and studying at a college where classes are actually taught in English, I have come no where close to feeling this way. Of course, this is nice, since I don’t think it would be so much fun not being able to communicate, but at the same time I feel a lot like I cheated.
Whenever I go for a walk or run on the street, I am never surprised to hear “Hello” or other English greetings directed my way. When I am with a friend who only understands Lao and another person begins speaking English to me I actually feel guilty! And I love spending time with you SAILers, but sometimes I am quiet since I don’t really want to speak English, but I don’t know how to respond in Lao either! Anyone who knows me well will know about my high expectations for myself studying in another country. For me, the entire point of going abroad is to learn another language and experience living there. There are very few places in the world that I would like to travel to see actual things. Even here in Laos, I am not so interested in tours or site seeing. Despite my recent camera purchase, I haven’t even been taking that many photographs. All I want to do is meet people who speak Lao and talk with them. So that is what I have been doing here in Vientiane.

I am so thankful for all the patient people I have met here who encourage me to speak Lao! Thank you so much for enjoying my company and inviting me to chat even though I may very well say ‘wao ik’ or ‘wao saa saa’ after every sentence.

Dear housemates of mine, I want to let you know of course I understand why it is easier for you to speak Chinese, but now that I am in a similar position as you, I hope you can believe me. You know, though, I will still tease you to speak in English since I would be thankful to have someone pushing me to speak Lao all the time! I miss you guys and hope you are having a wonderful summer! Mom, Dad, Samantha, Theresa and Som, miss you tons and hope you don’t miss me too much!

Posted in Author: Amy, Lao Language, Laos | 2 Comments

July 3, 2009

It’s Official…

That Dam stupa in Vientaine, Laos.

Today I ventured out on my own to explore more of the city. I took a tuk tuk to Nam Phou (the fountain located in what you would call downtown of Vientiane). This area is where you would find most of the tourists hanging out. The first place I stopped at was at the Lao Airlines office, where I bought my ticket to fly out to see my family next week. No words can explain the excitement and emotion that fills my heart. I cannot wait to meet all my aunts and uncles, especially my grandmother. I am looking forward to hearing them tell me stories of when I was just a toddler and of course I can’t wait to have a home cooked meal. Although I think Vientiane is a beautiful place, I feel I have not really seen Laos until I travel out of the city. As always, I am going into every situation with an open heart and mind, with no expectations, because I feel this is the only way to really enjoy whatever comes your way.

After I purchased my plane ticket, I walked around the area for a while then I headed towards Talat Sao (Morning Market). You can find practically anything at this market. On my walk, I strolled through That Dam and although I had seen it prior, this time I was really able to admire it and see its beauty even more. Once I reached Talat Sao, I headed across the street to Khuadin Market. To me, Khuadin Market is just as good a place to shop as Talat Sao because you can find the same things being sold here and sometimes a little cheaper. At Khuadin Market, my bargaining skill was put to the test. I purchased a new school shirt and a belt for my sinh (Lao traditional tube skirt), of which I have bought two and already had tailored. I would like to say that I did a pretty good job bargaining because I was able to get everything I bought for almost half the starting bid price. After exploring for a while, I made my way back to the area where we are staying via the bus.

I can’t believe we are at the end of our third week already. Time is just flying by once again. School has been great and I am meeting more new friends who I can exchange conversations with. I feel I am blending in a little more as my conversation skills are improving. I also officially started my volunteering at Settathirath Hospital in the Pediatric Ward. Everyone at the hospital has been very nice and accommodating and I feel I am learning a lot. I can’t wait to tell you all about my visit up north, but more than anything, I wish you all could be here yourself.

Posted in Author: Yaengsaeng, Laos, Trips, Volunteer Work | 4 Comments