Week two of our stay in Vientiane has come…and almost gone! After the hectic activity of the first week, SAILers had a much mellower second week, having found their stride and settled in. The week has been focused more on Lao language classes (the Beginning class is reading small words!) and reading up on Lao History (quiz them on the significance of the Phabang, and they won’t let you down). This week, after much hounding on my part, the SAILers also found language partners who they can meet and chat with in English and Lao. However, at this point it looks like all of Lao-American College is a language partner for our group! The SAILers are not shy and very approachable, and the LAC students are obviously excited to have real Americans on their campus. But I’m making sure our group doesn’t get off easy…this is their chance to speak Lao outside class!

Our classes are small, so the students are getting lots of personal attention. Achaan Bounmy definitely keeps the Beginning class on their toes, but I think their initial intimidation of him is subsiding. And, as a participant in the class, I must say the Intermediate class is a little more laid-back; Vatsana was especially happy when our achaan read our palms and told us about our personalities and lives. When word spread, the beginning class descended upon our achaan to have their palms read too. Apparently, Brandin has a very sabay sabay character, and looks like Sandra is going to have 3 kids! We will continue our language/cultural lessons by going to our achaan’s house in a few weeks to make Khao Tom or steamed sticky rice treats to take to the temple for the first day of Buddhist Lent, or “Khao Pansaa.” With the help of a UGrad student, our group took Talat Sao (Morning Market) by storm this week to buy their first sinhs (traditional Lao skirt). The vast variety was enticing and because we had a local helping us bargain, everyone walked away with more than one. Brandin was taken off by his Lao friends to find a nice shirt, which he sported the next day with a tie (to match the girls’ LAC ties). Classy SAILers!

Brandin and Sandra have become more regulars at the school, meeting lots of students and even sitting in on some undergrad classes such as Marketing and Global Cultures. Brandin will even be volunteering time to tutor LAC student that needs it. Since Brandin already seems to be well-known on campus, I’m sure he’ll have more students than he can handle. Eileen will be working with the LAC kindergartners when they start school next week, and possibly with the photography club. She has learned how to say “take a picture” in Lao, which is the most important phrase for her to know since she takes a minimum of 100 a day! I’ve got to get her to put that camera down for a second so she can enjoy the real thing.

Yaeng and Vatsana started their volunteer work with the Ministry of Health today. They had an orientation at Settathirath Hospital and from there may move to other sites. We are expecting their experiences to be more based on observation than actual implementation. Yaeng reported they were asked to write a summary of their experience, offer feedback, and possibly present it. Look out Journal of Lao Studies! Amy and Sandra will venture outside Vientiane a bit to volunteer at Donkoi Children’s Development Center – a public elementary school combined with a Center with programs that teach students about composting, recycling, growing mushrooms, raising frogs and basic carpentry. They also make cards and handicrafts and teach music and dancing in the summer. Although school officially starts next week (the new schedule due to the SEA Games that will take place in Vientiane in November & December), Amy & Sandra will share their skills with staff and students during the morning hours. English language assistance is most needed, but Sandra will try to explore other opportunities, such as gardening, arts, or helping in the library.

Socially, the SAILers are out and about, mainly thanks to their tight bond with the American-bound UGrad students. On any given night they can be found trying the new favorite Lao restaurants in town. Last night it was Korean BBQ after an unsuccessful attempt to see Ti Muay (Lao boxing) at the “Circus,” a structure that showed no signs of activity, nor signs that it had ever seen any activity! For a little exercise, Yaeng and Amy have really gone Lao by buying a badminton set, which they broke out on the windiest night so far. So they can only go uphill from here.

Some SAILers have been catching up with relatives they’ve never met, joining them for meals and visits. Amy connected with the father of her Lao friend, who took a few of us to his house for a BBQ. A real treat since they got to see Lao life in a more real setting. We sat on cement benches outside and chatted over kebabs and Khaochee Lao (Lao-style “bread” which is BBQ sticky rice in an egg batter) and he advised us to take a spoonful of fresh honey from a village before eating to protect against potentially harmful bacteria (advice we should’ve heeded since a few of us have had a little stomach trouble!). While Yaeng interpreted for Amy, Eileen and I took a walk down the dirt road, and witnessed a stunning pink sunset in the distance and Eileen snapped away with her camera. It was a rare open space in a city that seems to be subject to more and more urban sprawl. I’m looking forward to more opportunities to take SAILers to see Laos outside Vientiane. As Vatsana said when I asked her if Laos was what she thought it was, “I thought it would be simpler.” Proof they need to venture outside the town.