June 25, 2009

Week 2 in Vientiane — SAILers Settling In

Week two of our stay in Vientiane has come…and almost gone! After the hectic activity of the first week, SAILers had a much mellower second week, having found their stride and settled in. The week has been focused more on Lao language classes (the Beginning class is reading small words!) and reading up on Lao History (quiz them on the significance of the Phabang, and they won’t let you down). This week, after much hounding on my part, the SAILers also found language partners who they can meet and chat with in English and Lao. However, at this point it looks like all of Lao-American College is a language partner for our group! The SAILers are not shy and very approachable, and the LAC students are obviously excited to have real Americans on their campus. But I’m making sure our group doesn’t get off easy…this is their chance to speak Lao outside class!

Our classes are small, so the students are getting lots of personal attention. Achaan Bounmy definitely keeps the Beginning class on their toes, but I think their initial intimidation of him is subsiding. And, as a participant in the class, I must say the Intermediate class is a little more laid-back; Vatsana was especially happy when our achaan read our palms and told us about our personalities and lives. When word spread, the beginning class descended upon our achaan to have their palms read too. Apparently, Brandin has a very sabay sabay character, and looks like Sandra is going to have 3 kids! We will continue our language/cultural lessons by going to our achaan’s house in a few weeks to make Khao Tom or steamed sticky rice treats to take to the temple for the first day of Buddhist Lent, or “Khao Pansaa.” With the help of a UGrad student, our group took Talat Sao (Morning Market) by storm this week to buy their first sinhs (traditional Lao skirt). The vast variety was enticing and because we had a local helping us bargain, everyone walked away with more than one. Brandin was taken off by his Lao friends to find a nice shirt, which he sported the next day with a tie (to match the girls’ LAC ties). Classy SAILers!

Brandin and Sandra have become more regulars at the school, meeting lots of students and even sitting in on some undergrad classes such as Marketing and Global Cultures. Brandin will even be volunteering time to tutor LAC student that needs it. Since Brandin already seems to be well-known on campus, I’m sure he’ll have more students than he can handle. Eileen will be working with the LAC kindergartners when they start school next week, and possibly with the photography club. She has learned how to say “take a picture” in Lao, which is the most important phrase for her to know since she takes a minimum of 100 a day! I’ve got to get her to put that camera down for a second so she can enjoy the real thing.

Yaeng and Vatsana started their volunteer work with the Ministry of Health today. They had an orientation at Settathirath Hospital and from there may move to other sites. We are expecting their experiences to be more based on observation than actual implementation. Yaeng reported they were asked to write a summary of their experience, offer feedback, and possibly present it. Look out Journal of Lao Studies! Amy and Sandra will venture outside Vientiane a bit to volunteer at Donkoi Children’s Development Center – a public elementary school combined with a Center with programs that teach students about composting, recycling, growing mushrooms, raising frogs and basic carpentry. They also make cards and handicrafts and teach music and dancing in the summer. Although school officially starts next week (the new schedule due to the SEA Games that will take place in Vientiane in November & December), Amy & Sandra will share their skills with staff and students during the morning hours. English language assistance is most needed, but Sandra will try to explore other opportunities, such as gardening, arts, or helping in the library.

Socially, the SAILers are out and about, mainly thanks to their tight bond with the American-bound UGrad students. On any given night they can be found trying the new favorite Lao restaurants in town. Last night it was Korean BBQ after an unsuccessful attempt to see Ti Muay (Lao boxing) at the “Circus,” a structure that showed no signs of activity, nor signs that it had ever seen any activity! For a little exercise, Yaeng and Amy have really gone Lao by buying a badminton set, which they broke out on the windiest night so far. So they can only go uphill from here.

Some SAILers have been catching up with relatives they’ve never met, joining them for meals and visits. Amy connected with the father of her Lao friend, who took a few of us to his house for a BBQ. A real treat since they got to see Lao life in a more real setting. We sat on cement benches outside and chatted over kebabs and Khaochee Lao (Lao-style “bread” which is BBQ sticky rice in an egg batter) and he advised us to take a spoonful of fresh honey from a village before eating to protect against potentially harmful bacteria (advice we should’ve heeded since a few of us have had a little stomach trouble!). While Yaeng interpreted for Amy, Eileen and I took a walk down the dirt road, and witnessed a stunning pink sunset in the distance and Eileen snapped away with her camera. It was a rare open space in a city that seems to be subject to more and more urban sprawl. I’m looking forward to more opportunities to take SAILers to see Laos outside Vientiane. As Vatsana said when I asked her if Laos was what she thought it was, “I thought it would be simpler.” Proof they need to venture outside the town.

Posted in Author: Samantha | No Comments

June 25, 2009

Forgot what I wrote: Part II

Continuing from where I left off…

During the first week, we walked around That Luang a bit, bought local food, saw kids driving motorcycles, saw guys sitting on top of garbage trucks, walked back, saw some monks, went back to the guest house to change and eat a formal breakfast [the local food we bought], called a van, and went to our first possible NGO volunteering site. It was cute. They had their own little garden, their own little classrooms, and one big room for activities. Half of it was a kindergarten and the rest of it’s an after school thing… and I almost forgot, they grew their own little mushrooms too! After taking the tour they even gave us a little performance before everyone dispersed and went home. They were singing and dancing, it was really cute.

Then after a while, my camera ran out of battery so I couldn’t take anymore pictures…. But anyway, it was almost time for school so we went to the local fruit market down the path and went home to change into our “uniform” and get our books. There goes our 3rd day of school. After school, we went to the US Embassy where they wouldn’t allow us to bring cameras so there are no pictures of us there. After a LONG day, we walked down a block or two and ate at Khop Chai Deu Restaurant. Going home, Sandra made a new tuk-tuk friend, but he got pulled over by a cop while going home. Something about going up a street he wasn’t supposed to.

So this morning, Yaeng and Sandra went out with Guy again to go to the gym. They said there was a swimming pool and everything. Darn, I should’ve gone, but anyway, this morning I woke up to a nightmare and went outside to find everyone studying and doing their homework. I decided to hurry up and do mine too. Upon finishing, Yaeng and Sandra came back and we all ate breakfast that they brought up.

Posted in Author: Eileen, Laos | No Comments

June 25, 2009

My Journal for the week

Day 2: June 17, 2009-06-19

Apparently, to my surprise and astonishment, I do not look one bit Lao!!! I have been approached by numerous people, questioning my origin. If it was not for my name, it seems that the general consensus of the Lao people here is that I look Japanese. ??? I’m flummoxed!!! It is hilarious.

The cool thing about Laos is that when you go shopping, you need to bargain and barter your way to get things. I always call Yaeng to help me because she looks Lao and she’s a great broker. Unfortunately, because I look like a foreigner, (Japanese), they double and even triple the price on me. It’s hilarious!!!

I so much enjoy the older Lao people. I’ve picked up a few Mama Sans. I met one at the school supply store. (Of course, she also told me I look Japanese) and she’s very funny. They love to talk and chat…and make fun of my Lao.

We are invited to go to a baci this Saturday for one of the overseas graduates. It’s very exciting. I hope to buy a sinh (traditional lao skirt).

Day 4: June 17, 2009

We went to the NGO Basic Needs, an organization working with people with “mental health.” They would like for us to do more administrative work which I’m not really interested in. The cool part of the day is that we found a quaint little street shop that sold fruit. Oh my goodness, I’ve never seen so many exotic fruits and they are all so delicious, although I’m not too crazy about the Durian. I’ve tried the fruit that is red and looks like they have hairy tentacles, the hard brown mangosteens, lycees, (have eaten these before, but fresh, YUM), dragon fruit, weird mushy green fruit, and green papaya. I love the fruits and vegetables. I’m not too crazy about the meat because they don’t have refrigeration and they use all parts of the animals.

Speaking of animals, I’ve had a couple of night visitors already. My Goodness, do you know how big cockroaches are here??? And how fast???? I’ve sprayed everything in sight. The mosquitoes aren’t too bad, yet. However, I am the walking example of how to keep protected from mosquitoes. I take my daily vitamin Bs, bug spray from head to toe, and walk around with bounce fabric softeners sticking out of my pockets, shoes, shirt and pants. It’s a sight I tell you!

Day 5: June 18, 2009

We went to Talat Sao (morning market). It’s a hustle and bustle market ranging from mall like merchandise to wares from street peddlers. We ate in the food court area and I tried Khao Pun, a traditional noodle dish from Luang Prabang. It was spicy!!!! I hope I will get used to the spices here. Yaeng and Brandin are so daring, but my stomach is just not cut out for that. I bought my first sinh. It’s blue and has a lovely pattern. I have to get it made and am looking for a seamstress. I also bought a tie and school logo patch. I look like a school girl at the Lao-American College. As soon as I get my sinh made, I will get a picture of myself as a typical Lao College Student. I think that would be fun.

Day 6: June 19, 2009

The Lao language is so difficult. It’s a tonal language and we have just learned the consonants all 27, plus 28 vowels. It is beautiful because it sounds as if we’re singing, but golly!!! It’s very difficult. It’s amazing that I have learned the Lao alphabet and am learning to write in Lao. It’s very beautiful and therapeutic. Class is such a chore, but enjoyable. Our teacher (achaan is what we call her — it means teacher and it’s a great sign of respect) is amazing, only problem is that she speaks in this soft melodic way that puts me to sleep. So, of course, there I am trying to get her off topic and talk about other things. We got her to discuss with us the horoscopes and to read our palms. It was great fun.The teachers here are so revered and rightly so. The students are so shy, yet eager and I so enjoy their exuberant personalities when given the opportunity to speak English.

Today, Yaeng, Samantha and I went to the Ministry of Science and Health where we met the Vice President of the Ministry of Science and Health. It was a great honor to meet him as I know that it is very uncommon to have received such an opportunity as a foreigner. He was a soft spoken gentle man who was very official yet has quick and humorous sense of humor. It would be interesting to work at the Ministry of Science and Health and it seems as though they would like me to work in the department of children with disabilities in the hospital wing. However, it would be more of an observational, learning position. We’ll see what will become of that.

Things not to do when you get up at 7AM and go walking into town by way of the Wat: Do not take the back entrance and trespass so that you’re walking by their bedrooms and bathing place!!!

Posted in Author: Vatsana | 2 Comments

June 25, 2009

My Journal for the Week: Part II

A continuation of my journal — week 2!

Day 7: June 20, 2009

We went to Khoun’s baci, (a traditional Lao ceremony, usually performed for births, marriages, travels, special events) for his going away ceremony. The baci was conducted, or blessed, by 9 monks, a very honored ceremony with that many monks and then the elders also blessed the strings to wish luck. I gave my blessings to Khoun and I also received blessings from the older people and from friends. It’s such a joyous time, full of happiness and exciting anticipations. Khoun’s house was set up to host hundreds of guest throughout the day. We ate many variety of foods, fruits and we saw a roasting veal turning on a spit. It was pretty amazing. There was a band and we SAILers busted out the moves and learned to dance the traditional Lao Lamvong. I was told that I looked like a fish trying to swim out of water. I suppose I will need to brush up on my dancing.

We went to an amazing dinner, hosted by an ex-pat couple who have found their way back from America and have been successful at relocating in Laos. They built their new home on land that once belonged to their family member. At the dinner party, we met guests who work for the UN, Unicef, Mohosot hospital (general doctor), a noble peace prize winner, activist,…all very impressive and a knowledgeable group of guests who have been working tirelessly and persistently these past 30-40 years!!

Later that night, the SAILer group met up with some of the Lao-American students at the Music Festival hosted by the French Counsel. There we listened to heavy metal, reggae, hip-hop, country and folk songs. It was a great sight to see an eclectic group of musicians and the Lao youth welcoming and enjoying the music.

It’s again late and it’s time to go to bed as my eye lids droop and I struggle to keep them open.

Day 8: June 21, 2009

We went to a Children’s Center that was founded by Nang Noy Sengsourigna. She is currently in the States promoting Lao culture and arts. We were warmly welcomed and the children presented us with a variety of performances. They played traditional Lao instruments that looked like a xylophone and they sang and danced. They incorporated many more modern movements and music, making the Lao dancing fun and enjoyable. They are all learning English and were very excited to meet us.

We SAILers went on a picnic at one of the Lao-American faculty’s home. It was quite far and we enjoyed ourselves and made ourselves useful, cooking and BBQing. There we met more Lao-American students. It was nice to see the students outside of class.

Day 9: June 22, 2009

We went to Talat Sao and I bought 4 sinhs. Two blue ones and two red ones. They are so beautiful. The textile patterns on the bottom are so intricate and delicate looking. It’s funny, every sinh I chose the sales lady and our Lao-American friends would tease me and tell me I’m picking sinhs that are old lady styles, that they’re too plain and dull looking. They wanted me to get bright pink and purple — almost glowing colors. I’m sorry, but I don’t want to stand out that much. Now I need to get it tailored so that I can wear it.

I’m getting a kick out of dressing like the locals, especially like a Lao-American student. We have to wear a kind of uniform and we all look like school kids. I have the LAC ties, black shirt, short sleeve purple button-down shirt and flip-flops. I’ll attach a picture soon.

Day 10: June 23, 2009

I met my aunt on my father’s side and my great aunt who is 98 years old!!! She is soooo cute and so quick-witted with the memory of an elephant. I also learned that I have a cousin my age who shares similar interests and is currently living in the States — North Carolina. My family will be taking me to my father’s house and land in Vientiane. I can’t wait to see what it looks like. Ironically, I was born in Phone Keng, the place where we are currently staying. Apparently, my father had just bought the land and was building our house when we had to escape to the United States.

Learning Lao is gradually getting better. My writing is improved and I received a compliment from my teacher, saying I have nice handwriting. It’s simply because I find the Lao writing very soothing and I enjoy it. I feel like I’m doing art work.

Also, I just discovered that I will be working/volunteering at the Settathirath Hospital. I will be observing in the children’s wing. It’s a great opportunity to work for the government and the Ministry of Health and Science, but it also makes me nervous. I hope I will do a good job.

The SAILers went to a Korean restaurant, similar to our Shabu Shabu, or Suki Yaki. It was very interesting, although I was wary of the sliced meat (hmm, how long was it out in this heat?). I ate mostly the vegetables. But it was really cool, that we cooked at the table…but get this, they don’t have a hot pot that they plug in!! Oh no, they have this clay oven like bowl which they fill with hot red coals! It was pretty amazing cooking over hot coals, which many of the street vendors do. Many Lao people still use coal to cook and heat their homes.

Still very hot…. Mosquitoes still winning…12 to 0.

Posted in Author: Vatsana | 2 Comments

June 25, 2009

The First Weekend

So here I am in the American Center at Lao-American College trying to type about our first weekend in LAOS [and boy was it fun.] If I thought that school was exhausting, I haven’t seen the least of it.

On Saturday, we went to a friend’s (who we call “Gum Gum”) baci. A baci is a ceremony the Lao hold before someone takes off on a long journey – in this case, Gum Gum is going to the US to study for a semester. It was held at his house and there is nothing bad to say about it. There was music and lots of celebrating.
After the baci, some ugrads took us back to the guesthouse so we could get ready for a house party. After the house party though, the ugrads picked us up to go to an outdoor French music concert. There, we just gave it our all. They said that it was more fun going with us because we formed a little circle of friends in the middle of the dance floor and then all of a sudden everyone started hopping in. I admit I was stiff for the longest time at the beginning, but assuming that I would never be able to go to any other event like this until my last year of college, I loosened up a bit. It was pretty awkward though since I was never really into that sort of stuff even at school – I rarely went to dances, and if I did, I was usually the one that sat at the table the whole night. Then right before we left the DJ started playing all these oldies, many I had never heard of. We had a great time that night.

The next morning I woke up to a really loud bang from the construction next door. It was Sunday morning and Mr. Guy from LAC hosted a BBQ for his photoclub students so we could meet some language partners. When we got there, Sandra was cutting pineapple [with style], Yaeng was marinating the meat, Brandin came in for occasional checkups, Samantha was chatting it up with one of the ugrads, Vatsana was teaching the others a new game, Amy was sick so she couldn’t come, and I helped with random things here and there for a bit and then helped with making kebabs. By 5 pm, we had a LOT of food prepared and ready to go. I met a couple girls from another school, but then they agreed to teach me Lao so it’s all good. I was surprised because back in the States, kids my age don’t really care for education. They believe they’re only going to school because they have to – like we don’t have a choice. But then here, they actually want to learn.
Just yesterday [wednesday], Nui, my friend, brought over a sheet of paper with a bunch of tongue-twisters on it. They’re serious, it really took me by surprise. Now I figured that I need to work up my courage and take advantage of the nice students I meet. Otherwise I’ll really be losing out on this experience.

Then Tuesday came running ’round the corner and we had our FIRST Lao-History class!!
Got to study hard.

Posted in Author: Eileen, Culture, Laos | No Comments

June 25, 2009

Each Day A New Adventure

I can’t believe we’ve been here for over a week already. Our schedule for the first week was pretty busy so the days would just fly by us. We made a visit to the US Embassy a couple of days ago and found out that they have an internship program, something a couple of us are very interested in and seriously considering. Following our visit to the embassy, we had lunch at a restaurant called Khop Chai Deu. This is a favorite spot for many tourists. Their menu includes a little of something from all around the world, but of course we had Lao food. The table next to our, a group of young ladies, were enjoying some pizza. In the area around the restaurant, you could find other various foreign restaurants that served Indian food to Greek to Mexican. Yes, you can get a burrito in Laos amazingly, although I’ve been told it isn’t too great (this is no surprise to me). Class has been tough, but it’s only because our achan (teacher) wants us to learn a lot. Unlike the Roman alphabet and vowels, the Lao language has 27 consonants and 28 vowels, each with different tones. I am proud to say that I now have them all down. I hope to be reading in another week or so. Although we are split up into two different class levels, I feel we are all at the same level when it comes to writing and reading. I also had the opportunity to visit the University of Health Science. There I met the university’s vice president, who is to help connect me with a local hospital where I will be volunteering my time. I still don’t have a clear idea of what I will be doing, but just the opportunity to be in the healthcare setting is an honor for me. I look forward to learning a lot while I am here because as a traveling nurse, Laos is on the top of my list of places to work. We were also invited by a friend of one of the SAILers, Amy, to have dinner at his home. He was so nice and accommodating, a prime example of the generosity the Lao people possess. It was really nice to get out of the busy area where we are staying. At his house, the weather was cooler and the air fresher. We even saw a beautiful sunset. I was also able to witness first hand the happiness the Lao are always talking about; nothing makes them happier than sitting down to a meal with their family. Our achan even told us that for dinner everyone waits until the last person gets home before they eat, no matter how late this time may be because family time is very important. We learned a lot in just one week and we still had the weekend.

Our first weekend was full of fun. On Saturday we attended a baci (blessing ceremony) for one of the Ugrad student, Khoun. We were picked up at 8 am and were one of the first people to arrive at Khoun’s house. For the blessing ceremony they had 9 monks, followed by the Sou Khaun, which we were also a part of. I must say that Saturday was one of the hottest days since we’ve been here, but that did not stop us from dancing. The food was great and Khoun and his parents were the most attentive hosts. Later that night we attended a special dinner at a Hmong and Lao American couple’s home. Their house was so beautiful, the food was great and the hosts were so welcoming. At the dinner, we had the opportunity to meet a lot of successful Lao scholars and business people. I felt very humbled at the chance to sit and talk to each one of them. They all had very amazing stories to tell of their work and some good suggestions for us. Following dinner, some Ugrad students picked us up to attend a music festival hosted by the French Center. I forgot to mention earlier that we had the chance to sit down with all the Ugrads from Lao American College when we first arrived. These students are the brightest of their class and have won full scholarships to study abroad throughout America. There are a total of 8 or 9 of them. These students are not only bright, they are also very nice and fun to be around. They have become our friends and we’ve been able to exchange our experiences with each other. Sunday was also full of good experiences. I started the day early by going to the meat market where we bought beef, fish and lots of vegetables for a barbeque later that day. In the afternoon, we visited a children’s center that focuses on promoting the arts, music, dance and Lao culture for disadvantaged children around the area. These kids were amazing, they prepared a couple of performances for us, which included musical instrument playing, a couple of traditional dances, followed by some songs that the founder of the center wrote. The best part of this visit had to be when we were asked to get up and hold hands with everyone while singing a song about friendship. The night ended with a barbeque. At the barbeque, we met more LAC students and I found my language partner Khoung. I think we will learn a lot from each other. It was a lot of fun talking to everyone and hearing a little of everyone’s background. I hope to meet even more people as time goes by.

There has been nothing about Laos that I can complain about. I am loving the “Tuk Tuk” rides, dinners along the Mekong River, and chatting it up with the locals at the markets. No matter where I go, I am at awe at the rich culture Laos has to teach me. I have been here less than two weeks, but I feel like I been here forever because I feel so comfortable here. I am counting down the days till I meet my grandmother. I spoke to her for the first time ever this week and I had to hold back tears because I realized how close I am to meeting my family that I have been waiting to see since I was a little girl. I hope to have more exciting stories to share with everyone, but as I said before, my stories are only a little taste, you have to come to Laos to get the full experience.

Posted in Author: Yaengsaeng, Laos | 1 Comment

June 25, 2009

SORRY!!!

I would just like to take this time to apologize to all the people who are not here in Laos with us.  You are missing out!!!

Ok, with that being said I would like to say that our first presentation on American University life went well.  Amy and I put a lot of work into it and I think people liked it… at least if they could understand it.  Some of it may have gone over their heads simply because I spoke too fast.  It was fun, at least. I can relax a little until next week when Sandra and I have to start preparing for the next presentation on music in America. We tried some Korean food last night. Really it was more of a Lao interpretation on Korean food, but it was good.  It’s amazing how inexpensive everything is here.  I especially appreciate being able to spend 14,000 kip (~$1.65) on a mocha frappe before class starts. It beats the heck out of Starbucks! The girls are all going to get their Sinhs made.  We went to Thalat Sao the other day and they bought some fabric, and I bought a school shirt.  Which reminds me, if any of my sisters are reading this, I will only bring fabric back for you if you call me.  That is my new rule.

Much love all,

Brandin

Posted in Author: Brandin, Laos | 1 Comment

June 25, 2009

The Stair Master

Gosh…this is my first time bloggin blogs’…..I’m more of a “physical” socialite. But here goes….sorry…I tend to jump around with random thoughts.

So much has happened since I have arrived in Laos. Learning about Laos, visiting local organizations, getting used to the Hot weather, going to classes, making new friends, hanging out getting a great Lao massage for around $4 for 1 hour, getting invited to awesome social events and mixers, meeting individuals ranging from Lao American College students to high-level individuals.

It has been about a whole week now and I feel that I have been here for months! It’s good and it’s also bad..because I was looking through some past pictures from last week….and it just seems so far away…..and I can totally tell that I will miss Laos…the sense of sadness overcame me….because 8 weeks is really not much time to really capture the essence of the culture, and heritage. It’s just the tip. I have made random friends with anyone that would talk to me, managed to get a free ride into downtown, gave nick names on top of nick names for those I really enjoy spending my down time with.

I am mentally trying to focus being here in Laos but I have so much to think about with work. It’s so hard to find a place that has fast internet. Brandin and I found one  “turf” walking, and found a gamers’ café, and of course they were either playing “Counter Strike” or “Star Craft” — gaming is popular everywhere.

Being in Laos really humbles my spirit and helps to rekindle my personal self image and ways of life I can’t really explain in words. Just being here and living day by day I really appreciate my parents even more…struggling learning a new language and adapting to a totally “flipped” environment.

Despite all the traffic no one honks at each other….that’s pretty awesome….no road rage at all. Everyone just slows down, runs red lights and avoids  moving objects like cattle, stray dogs, old women and monks. Sitting in the front seat with the “Saam Low” (three wheeler taxi) driver I see more of Vientiane, choppin’ it up with them while holding on to dear life going against traffic.

I sat in on a couple of classes at the Lao American College and was very impressed by the Lao students’ manners. I really enjoy being a part of the learning process and compared the differences in teach/learning techniques.

Random thought….met my first Turkish person here in Laos.

I can’t express how amazing my experience coming to Laos is different every time. Laos is developing so fast.
I am totally getting a work-out climbing up 4 flights of stairs and trying to keep my balance from the uneven staircase, everyday at our guesthouse. Eventhough I made friends, it’s hard to find a Lao language partner without a cell phone…..so luckily Eileen had her phone with her. Now it’s time to scout out a partner.

It is awesome that we are starting to recognize Lao characters, but it’s taking a bit longer for me. Writing the Lao characters…it looks like a beautiful pattern on my paper. Hopefully these patterns will start to look like words..

Posted in Author: Sandra, Laos | No Comments