June 17, 2009

Children of refugees make first trip to Laos

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Yaengsaeng Xayavong, 26, left, of Oakland, and Amy Bowers, 20, of Milwaukee, participate in an orientation at the Center for Lao Studies on Thursday, June 11, 2009, in San Francisco, Calif. Xayavong and other Lao-Americans are traveling to Laos for the first time on June 12 to learn more about the experiences their parents faced as refugees. (Jane Tyska/Staff)

Yaengsaeng Xayavong, 26, third to the left of the screen in back row, of Oakland, and others participate in an orientation at the Center for Lao Studies on Thursday, June 11, 2009, in San Francisco, Calif. Xayavong and other Lao-Americans are traveling to Laos for the first time on June 12 to learn more about the experiences their parents faced as refugees. (Jane Tyska/Staff)

Yaengsaeng Xayavong, 26, third to the left of the screen in back row, of Oakland, and others participate in an orientation at the Center for Lao Studies on Thursday, June 11, 2009, in San Francisco, Calif. Xayavong and other Lao-Americans are traveling to Laos for the first time on June 12 to learn more about the experiences their parents faced as refugees. (Jane Tyska/Staff)

Please follow the link for a complete story:

http://www.contracostatimes.com/news/ci_12613237

Children of refugees make first trip to Laos

By Matt O’Brien
Contra Costa Times
Posted: 06/17/2009 05:25:42 PM PDT
Updated: 06/17/2009 05:59:42 PM PDT

SAN PABLO — Yaengsaeng Xayavong is trying to reacquaint herself with a homeland she cannot remember.

The 26-year-old was born in Laos but has no memories of life there. Her family made a nighttime escape across a river to Thailand when she was 5.
On Saturday, the laboratory technician from San Pablo returned to Laos for the first time since her refugee family fled.

“Words really can’t describe how I feel,” she said before she left. “There’s always been a part of me that’s missing.”

Xayavong is one of a handful of Lao-Americans spending the next eight weeks getting to know Laos through an inaugural study abroad program sponsored by the San Francisco-based Center for Lao Studies.

The pilot program is the first of its kind in the U.S., said Vinya Sysamouth, the volunteer-run center’s executive director.

“A lot of Lao-Americans have very little knowledge about their own background, where they’re from, their own language,” Sysamouth said. “They’re curious about their background and the experiences their parents went through.”

The participants, who range in age from 16 to 37, met each other Thursday at an orientation in San Francisco and arrived in Laos over the weekend. They will spend most of the summer in the capital city of Vientiane, studying at a local college and performing community service. Some will seek out family members they have never met.

“I’m trying to connect with a side of me I don’t really know much about,” said Brandin Versteegh, 21, from Marshalltown, Iowa.

Versteegh’s father was a teenager when he fled Laos and resettled with family members in the central Iowa town. There, he met and married Versteegh’s mother, a white Marshalltown native who listened to country music. Versteegh said his cultural upbringing was focused heavily on his mother’s side. Going to Laos, and learning more about his father’s background, has been a lifelong dream.

Laos from the 1950s through the 1970s became an extended theater of the war in neighboring Vietnam. The Central Intelligence Agency secretly backed the Laotian royal army as it battled communist fighters. When the U.S.-supported forces lost, many of those who survived were forced to flee.

Los Angeles teacher Vatsana Bilavarn, 37, said societal pressure to assimilate caused her to neglect learning about her family history while growing up in Danbury, Conn.

“I pushed my heritage aside for a long time because I didn’t feel like I had the connection,” she said. Although her parents expressed great love and longing for their homeland, they were reluctant to delve into their painful refugee experiences. Today, Bilavarn said “there’s a great urgency and need to acknowledge the Lao Diaspora” and she wants to use the trip to find ways to preserve endangered Lao culture and folklore in the United States.

“I don’t know if I’m going to be surprised,” Bilavarn said of the trip. “I don’t know if I’m going to be disappointed. I don’t know if I’m going to be enlightened.”

Sysamouth, who also fled Laos as a child, said the study program was partly inspired by his own difficulties finding a way to learn more about Laos when he was a college student in 1994. With no programs available, he enrolled in an exchange program in Thailand and made a personal detour to Laos.

Sysamouth estimates there are 35,000 Laos immigrants and their descendants in the Bay Area, including members of the Mien, Lue and Hmong ethnic groups. He tapped into the Lao community locally and nationwide for the summer program, but said the size of the travel group remains small because participants must pay about $5,000.

Xayavong, who grew up in a Lue family in the Richmond area, found out about the program from a flier she picked up at the Champa Thai and Vietnamese restaurant in El Sobrante.
She has been practicing her Lue for weeks, making sure she is ready to speak with a grandmother she says is waiting to meet her.

“I wouldn’t say I’m fluent,” Xayavong said. “My accent could be better. But I definitely can sit down and hold a conversation. I might have to pause a bit to make sure I’m using the right words.”

Reach Matt O’Brien at 925-977-8463 or mattobrien@bayareanewsgroup.com.

BLOGGING A SUMMER IN LAOS

San Pablo resident Yaengsaeng Xayavong and other participants in the Summer Study Abroad in Laos program are keeping track of their eight-week experience in a blog at http://www.laostudies.org

June 17, 2009

Loving Vientiane, Laos

We made it safely to Laos and have been here for 3 days now. A lot has happened since our arrival and I would love to share it with everyone so bear with me if my story is long.

After 18 long hours of traveling from San Francisco to Tokyo to Bangkok, we still had more traveling to do before we reach our final destination to Vientiane, Laos. The anticipation was now killing me more than ever because I was so close to being back home. Our overlay flight from Bangkok to Vientiane was more than 8 hrs so we had to spend a night in Bangkok. Being that we had just traveled half around the world, the other SAILers and I were too excited to go to sleep so we decided to explore the area around the hotel. This turned out to be quiet an interesting venture. Not only was the direction of traffic the opposite of that in the States, we saw lots of dogs just straying in the street, we even saw some sleeping on the side of the middle divider. We also saw toads hopping in the middle of parking lot and had our first encounter of meatballs on a stick from one of those street vendor carts.

The next day, we had to wake up bright and early to catch the hotel shuttle for our flight. The only thing now keeping me from being in the Motherland was another hour and a half. Although, I had less than 3hrs of sleep, I stayed awake the entire flight so that I did not forget any part of my journey to Laos. Of course the first thing I wanted to do when we arrived was EAT, but we had to check into our hotel beforehand. We were picked up by a very nice fellow at the airport, who later helped us negotiate a price for our first “tuk tuk “ride, which we took to eat at our first sit in home restaurant, followed by a trip to what is called the “Morning Market”. This market is pretty much a big indoor flea market with everything from food to clothes to electronics. Amazingly, although we were all drained, we still managed to get picked up by Samantha’s friend for some night outing. He took us to a place serving something similar to a hot pot dinner, followed by a drive around town. The most exciting thing about my first night in Laos, hands down, had to be my night ride inside the truck bed around the city.  I felt HOME!

It has been mind-boggling to me how much we get done in a day. I have been sleeping late and waking up early. My days have started out with walking around and exploring town. It is especially important to get things done early because later during the day, it is so hot that it makes you lazy and slow at doing things. We also started school on Monday, which has been great. I must say that the Lao language is definitely not an easy language to speak and write. There is also so much to discover in our Culture and History of Laos class. I can not forget to mention the group’s visit to Donkoi Children’s Development Center. It was so much fun and the kids were so wonderful. They put on a performance for us, which included singing in Lao and English and a dance. I also met another Tai Lue volunteer while at the center which was exciting because our family were from the same area. We ended our second night in Laos with another “tuk tuk” ride to downtown, where we had dinner sitting along the Mekong River which felt so surreal.

My visit to That Luang is just one example that has proven that words and pictures is not enough, everyone has to experience Laos themselves to truly understand its magnificence. I am at a lost of words when trying to describe my feelings here, at times I find myself feeling chills or teary eyed with the realization that I am in this amazing place. Each day has been an adventure in its own. I still have so much of Laos to see and I just can’t wait. So far I have been eating everything I can get my hands on, but honestly, I have to say nothing beats my mommy’s home cooking.

The internet has been pretty difficult to upload anything so until I can share some pictures and videos, I hope you guys can use my journey thus far to get a taste of Laos.  I am truly having the best time of my life right now and the journey is so young still so I hope to share more soon.

June 17, 2009

I’m here

Wow…even though it has been about 3 days I feel like I have been here for a longer time.  It’s great!  Because we only have less than 8 weeks….so we literally got off the plane running…

I was really excited and anxious to meet and greet the other SAILers I can tell they all were too!  After 3 days round the clock with them….I feel an interesting connection with them all…as well as the motivation and drive to learn about the wonderful country of Laos.

First off the Lao language is pretty hard….I love my teacher he is pretty awesome!  We learned 27 consonants and 28 vowels in 3 days….now it is up to us to practice pronouncing the words correctly.  I am learning so much this time around..because I’m not just coming to visit family friends…and touring around…I’m learning about my identity as a Lao person through the Lao-American College, students and fellow SAILers.

Coming back to Laos is always new changes and exciting things to see and do.  I can’t believe so much has happened since the last time I was in Laos.  First thing I noticed was the population and the paved roads.

Just got my first Lao massage…lovin’ it….ate last night at the Mekong river…I can’t wait to go to the villages!  Went to the US Embassy….and visited local Ngos….but gotta go….our ride is leaving….promise I will have more….FOOD IS GREAT…..

June 17, 2009

Culture Shock?

What? Culture shock? What is that? Whatever it is, I am sure that I do not have it.

Here in Vientiane, I feel as good as ever. Even better actually. I can’t help but smile all the time and I just have this urge to say ‘Sabaydii’ to everyone I pass. It feels so great to be here, I just can’t believe it! I am sure that a big part of it has to do with being with the other I am feeling so comfortable with the other English speaking SAILers! I am so glad I get to share this experience with the six of you! All of you have such a rich past and I am looking forward to learning from you. Many things you and your family experienced learn through films or books, but there is nothing that can replace personal experience. I really appreciate you sharing!

But really, I feel so natural here. All I want to do is speak Lao, but knowing so very little as I do, at first it was very difficult to maintain even the smallest of conversations. In just a few days, I have improved so much! In fact, I have definitely learned more outside of class so far, but we did just learn the alphabet (which is very hard to learn!).

It’s kind of funny because I feel much more comfortable speaking Lao here than I did in the U.S. Here I feel so confident, I just want to go to all the neighbors and chat with them to practice. In the U.S. I was always so shy! Especially when people put me on the spot, I would always be worried I would take forever to choke out a few words. I was nervous I would have that same shyness here, but I haven’t felt that way at all. Actually, it seems almost like a game to me to find as many opportunities to talk to native Lao speakers here, even if all I can manage is hello or thank you.

One thing that is very hard to master is the money! I know all the notes (500, 1000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,0000 Kip) but knowing what these numbers mean is another story. The exchange rate is currenty 8,507 Kip for a dollar, give or take. The trick is that 10,000 is about $1.25. When making a purchase, there is no time to make this calculation, however. I think it is best if I just learn what reasonable prices would be. Also, the Kip is pretty hard to work with as some of the bills look very similar. For instance, Sandra missed out on 8,000 Kip at the currency exchange where the teller gave her a 2000 instead of 10,000 note. At least it was less than a dollar!

As of now, this seems like the most difficult thing for me to master, but that may change once I start really speaking Lao as much as I can! I expect to get frustrated sometimes, not being able to express myself. I hope I can just relax and enjoy the ride! So far it has been as smooth as riding in a tuk-tuk. And yes, riding in a tuk-tuk is surprisingly steady! Most drivers are pretty good, and it feels so good to have that fresh air blowing past. As I hop on a tuk-tuk, hopefully I wont run into the sudden stops, bad exhaust and potholes of culture shock!