August 16, 2010
Goodbye Vientiane (for now)
I have taken a lot longer in posting my last entry because to reflect on the whole trip seems to me impossible. I can say that I have learned about Lao PDR, met great people and improved my language ability during the trip, but it doesn’t feel as if that does this experience justice. All I will say is that this has been life changing for me.
I can take a moment to elaborate on the best point of this trip. I have never met so many wonderful people in such a short period in my life! Its like speed-dating for the heart. My fellow SAILers have made a lasting bond. My program leader and teachers, especially Aachaan Bounmy, feel like family members. And my friends are too good to believe.
I really can’t describe very well why this is all so great, but I love this place and always want to know whats around the next corner.
August 11, 2010
Week Eight
Today was our final day at the Lao American College. It was certainly a sad day to have to say goodbye to our teachers and some of our new friends. The road to this point was definitely long and hard but I think I have definitely gained quite a bit on this journey. I was happy with my results from the language and history classes but more happy to have met and become close to our teachers. They are such wonderful people. They enlightened us with stories about their families and helped us outside of the classroom with matters beyond their required duties. The friends we made here in Laos will last forever. They were so friendly and considerate from the very beginning. I only hope that I was able to help them out in some way as well. The time that we spent together both at the LAC and around Vientiane consisted of many memorable moments that I hope to share with them all again one day.
Before I left the US to come to Laos, I was a bit wary of these other SAILers but I quickly found out that I could not have asked for a better group of individuals to have shared this experience with. Thank you to Toby for her humor and friendship, to Sack for his silliness and love of adventure, to Ryan for his openness and insightful observations, and to Natalie for her warm smile and frequent confusion (joking). Lung Xuan, too, made this journey very comfortable and at times, extremely entertaining. He made sure we were always alright. I can tell that he’s grown attached to us over these eight weeks and I know that we feel the same way about him. He will undoubtedly be a great program leader for next year’s SAILers.
As all the SAILers go their separate ways, I know I will miss everyone. My time here in Laos is winding down and it seems like there is still so much left to do. I leave Laos this time with a better appreciation for what the country has gone through, where it is now, and the hope that the people here have for its future. I am sure I will be back here one day, hopefully sooner rather than later. I will certainly miss this place and the people here. I know I still have much to learn about Laos but I feel that because of the SAIL program, my connection to Laos has been strengthened and will serve as a launching point to other great opportunities here in the future.
Lastly, thank you to Dr. Vinya and all the supporters of the SAIL Program and the Center for Lao Studies. Such a program is vital for Lao Americans and other Americans to understand their identities and the changing world around them. Laos is not stagnant. It is important for students to broaden their experiences and the SAIL Program is an excellent opportunity to do just that.
August 11, 2010
Not Xok Dii, But Pob Kan May
Yesterday was officially our final day at the Lao-American College. A ceremony was held for our completion of the program and all that helped us with our journey here in Laos were there with full support. Thank you for our teachers, Lung Xuan, and our friends at the LAC who all enriched our experience with unforgettable smiles and giggles. Also thanks to Amy from SAIL ’09 who came to hang out with us. Noy Sengsuriya for informing of the current situation about Lao music and to the internet cafe lady whom I found out I have some family connections with. As the title reads I’m not much of a person for an eternal goodbye, but I’m more about see you later and next time we’ll meet again.
Many thanks to 2010 SAILers. By the end of today we will most likely have taken off on different paths. Good luck on your journey back to the states.
But of course the true person I should really be thanking is Dr. Vinya. If not for you I would never have had the opportunity to do the many wonderful things I have been able to do. I wish that I could just pour all the money in the world into your pocket for all your countless hours of dedication to this program and for the Center for Lao Studies. You are truly an inspiration to look up to.
But my adventure has not ended yet. Tonight I will be riding a bus back to Pakse to visit my parents home villages of Ban Yong and Ban Sapai. I will also be looking forward to seeing the waterfalls and hopefully Wat Phu Champasaak. By the end of this trip I have toured most of Laos and I am very pleased to have that opportunity. SAIL 2010.
August 11, 2010
Almost Farewell
I’m avoiding writing this post because it means that my days in Laos are getting smaller by the day. Today was the final day at LAC and we celebrated with the people that have made this trip a wonderful experience. There are things I want to say that simply cannot be formed correctly nor elegantly enough. There is an impending feeling of doom that only comes with knowing that these are my last few days. I hope I have done enough and given enough that there are proud people that have been reading along. It’s been an amazing trip and I know that I will be back.
I will surely miss the sights and sounds and people that have come into our lives so gracefully and have changed us for the better. Our teachers and the staff at LAC, our friends and family, and Lung Xuan - I hope they all know that we are grateful for their friendships, support and love. This feeling is why I keep coming back to Laos and I hope that all know that they will forever be a part of our lives. I leave this country a better person because of everyone that have crossed our paths.
Ake, Ryan, and Sack – Thank you thank you thank you for being there for me always during our time together in Laos and for your friendships. I feel really lucky to have been surrounded by such amazing people. I will miss seeing your faces everyday and the crazy antics that only we can create together. The road does not end here for us and I am positive that each and every one of you will do amazing and great things both in the States and in Laos.
Lastly, thank you all of you that have been reading. Thank you for supporting me and please support CLS and the wonderful things it can offer.
August 6, 2010
Xieng Khouang, Final Days, & Other Thoughts
Other than the trip to and from Xieng Khouang giving me a headache, I really appreciate the opportunity to seeing what the city had to offer.
We first set out to see the Plain of Jars which put in me in awe and also deeply mystified. There were so many of this large, stone jars just sitting out on the hills of Xieng Khouang. What were these really used for? Some say that these were jars used for rice liquor for soldiers in ancient times. Others say that these jars were used to put the remains of royal ancestry after they passed away. And then others believe that these jars were used for trading amongst merchants coming in from China. Hopefully in time mankind will come up with the indefinite answer to this enigma that has been unsolved for so long.
It was interesting to learn that XK is one of the most heavily bombed areas of Laos. I decided to go to MAG’s (Mines Advisory Group) walk-in learning center to find out more about the bombings. Before coming to Laos I didn’t know that the United States had such an involvement with Laos with all the immense amounts of bombs they dropped on the country, which now makes Laos the most heavily bombed country in the world. Laos was bombed more heavily than all the bomb dropped during WWII, which I think is heartbreaking to know since war was never really declared on Laos; at least only of my limited knowledge.
It’s also really sad to know that the leftover bombs dropped on the country put Laos in such a bad shape since farmers can’t plant crops as freely as they want to without getting killed or losing some permanent part of their body to an explosion. It makes me want to get more involved in ridding this issue of bombs.
Then after that the group went to Tham Piu to learn about the killing of an estimated 374 people hiding in a cave got killed by missile bombs shot from American planes. The majority of people were regular citizens. I’ll have to more research to understand the reason why this happened.
Other than the history of Xieng Khouang, the weather was just right compared to the hot hustle and bustle of Vientiane. Not that there’s anything wrong with Vientiane, but sometimes it does get hot!
What else that has been on my mind lately is the future of Lao music. I’ve been out to many of the clubs out here in Laos and it just surprises me that there are barely, if any, songs played that are sung by Lao singers, in Lao. It’s always a bunch of American pop songs, then here and there your Korean pop, and then your of course Thai love songs to fill in the rest. But what about Lao songs? I don’t mind the American songs since I am from the US Aafter all. But, still, ya know.
Hopefully more Lao songs get played more within society so I can come back and feel like I’m in Laos, not America.
This is the final week of my journey with the SAIL program. I’m very, very sad to realize that I have so little time left here. I feel, that I need more time to be here and understand the country. But, I am forever grateful that I had the opportunity of coming here and learning more about my Lao roots. I am happy to say that I will be visit my parents villages of Ban Yong and Ban Sapai in Pakse next week. I can’t wait to learn more about how they grew up and what South has to offer.
Until Next Time,
Phouthasack
To learn more about the unexploded bomb situation in Laos visit MAG’s website at:
http://www.maginternational.org/
August 4, 2010
Once again out of Vientiane
This week we had our second trip outside of Vientiane. This time we traveled northeast to Xieng Khoung Province and the city of Phonsavanh. There is a lot more to the place than it is given credit for in the guide books. Just coming to the city it felt like it was a “real” Lao city. Not like Luang Prabang with the UNESCO status and the endless pilgrimage of tourists. Not even like Vientiane which is so much larger than anything else in the country. This city was in the words of our program leader more dusty and more like Vientiane in the ’90s. As for the night life — everything closes quite early!
We were tourists again this trip. We went to the Plain of Jars (site #1). Everyone craned their necks to see inside them. While we were all wondering what the jars were used for (they say liquor or funerals) it was hard to not notice the massive bomb craters in the middle of the site. I was upset myself to see one of the largest jars had been toppled over and shattered, presumably by the crater directly next to it. One can only wonder what has been erased by the war. You don’t have to look far to see the continuing effects — such as the warning signs to watch for bombies.
Later that day we went to the MAG UXO museum. The most important thing I have learned is to see forty years later the legacy of the war from the perspective of the receiving-end of US imperialism. How can the U.S. embassy be contributing such a pittance to the UXO removal program?! How can they smile so vacantly in the face of their handy-work? The US embassy was certainly not so hands-off during the war. In fact, they were picking the targets to bomb. It is a bitter pill to take but to learn this is something that most Americans need.
August 4, 2010
Week Seven
Lung Xuan and I at the Plain of Jars
In the midst of preparing for my presentation, the other SAILers and I were able to take a trip to Xieng Khouang. It was such a scenic trip. The rolling hills and mountains against a backdrop of blue skies and white clouds were more impressive to the eye than anything I have ever seen in a picture. My first impressions of Xieng Khouang was that it was a dusty little town, something out of a Western movie, with one main street in and out of the city. Everything seemed to shut down after 11pm, which made walking the streets at night a bit of an adventure. While walking back to the guesthouse one night, Toby, Michael and I were invited to join two parties. The people there were extremely hospitable. I did notice the large amount of Vietnamese that was spoken in the city. Apparently, Xieng Khouang is a major stop between Hanoi and Vientiane, contributing to the growing Vietnamese presence there.
Aside from Xieng Khouang nightlife, we visited the Plain of Jars, Muong Khun (famous for its ancient stupas and temples that were ravished during the war). My favorite part of the trip was the visit to Tham Phiou. From 1964 to 1968, the cave was used as a safe haven for local residents during the bombing campaigns that took place in the province. More than 300 civilians were killed when missiles were fired directly into the cave. For most of my life, I heard stories about the “legacies of war” from the experience of those who made it to the United States. I learned from the visit to the cave that such atrocities are as valid and should not be forgotten. It is a tragedy of war no matter what side one supported. Innocent people suffered all over the country and it is important to remember their stories.
Burial sites on the cliffsides below Tham Phiou
August 4, 2010
7/31/2010
On top of Mount Puu Sii overlooking all of Luang Prabang from above.
Releasing my feelings through the setting free of animals.
What can I say? I’ve been enjoying my time here in Muong Lao. Last weekend Ryan, Natalie, Toby and I went to visit the famous city of Luang Prabang. I said to myself that I had to make sure to visit this city because I had heard so much about it! In the peaceful town we visited the royal palace, Mount Puu Sii, and sailed a boat down the Mekong to take a look at the ancient caves. Luang Prabang is a place worth your time and money to visit. It’s so peaceful and the scenery of the mountains make you feel at one with the world.
What was funny was that our return journey back to Vientiane a huge mudslide occurred causing a huge traffic jam lasting for almost four hours! I’ve heard that mudslides are common around the rainy season. The mountains and scenery that you see while riding the bus up North will take your breath away. Simply put, it’s the grand canyon of Laos. What else was also interesting was the bus passed a lot of Hmong villages. It was surprising to see that the village way of life. It reminded me a lot of the stories my parents told me about their childhood experiences.
I am happy to announce that this weekend the SAILers are currently in Xieng Khouang at the time being. I can’t wait to see the mysteries of the plain of jars. I am also excited to talk to survivors of the unexploded bombs in this area of Lao. It disheartens me so to know that so many people lose their lives or become handicapped because of these unexploded bombs. It makes me wish I could do more for them.
That’s all for this blog. I promise to come back with more news of beautiful Muong Lao!
Until Next Time!
Phouthasack =)
August 2, 2010
Final Day at DCDC
My days in Laos have been crazy but I find my busy life to be fulfilling.
Yesterday was my last day at the Donkoi Children Development Center (DCDC) so I will finally have my mornings free to do anything I haven’t done yet before it is time to head back to the States. My final day at DCDC consisted of a lot of hugs and a send off baci ceremony. The kids were eager to tie a string around my wrists and share many wishes. Although I won’t miss the morning commute, I will miss the kids immensely. With the pre-baci speech and the many gifts (cards and handicrafts done by the kids) that were given to me, I am positive that my presence there was not a waste. I feel a deep sense of satisfaction that only comes with knowing that I impacted many wonderful kids.
I have had many wonderful opportunities here to explore and be a part of this wonderful country. I’ve made some amazing deep connections that will definitely make my departure much harder than it would have been many weeks ago.
August 2, 2010
Favorite Lao City
After a wonderful and short trip to Luang Prabang, I am going to have to name it my favorite Lao city, even if it is premature and even if there were some unpleasant parts of the trip.
Sack, Ryan, Natalie and I took an overnight bus after school last Thursday. We finally got there 13 hours later and found a place to stay. I will say that when I woke up on Friday morning there was a hint of regret only because I could hear it pouring outside. I didn’t pay money to come sleep in another guesthouse. Amazingly the rain let up and Sack and I went exploring. We got some amazing noodles and then decided to see some temples. As a world heritage city, there were many beautiful temples to visit. Besides the temples, we also went to a cave by boat that had many Buddha images. The boat ride was beautiful with miles and miles of forestery as far as the eye can see on every side.
The trip home was crazy, but I am glad we got to experience it. I sat at the top front of the VIP bus and the views were breathtaking. I hope to make the trip again one day.
August 2, 2010
Favorite Conference
I have been to many conferences in my short life, and I swear I am not trying to brown-nose when I say that the 3rd International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand was probably the best conference I have been to in a long time. Five reasons why I enjoyed the conference.
1. It was well organized. Like any professional gathering, there are bound to be bumps along the way, and should there have been any at this conference, they went unnoticed by me. The SAILers were able to also be a part of it by helping out with registration. It was a nice way to meet some of the participants and presenters.
2. Great panels. I have never been to a Lao Studies Conference but I am happy to report that I went to many presentations that were wonderful on the subject of Laos. Unfortunately, because of the large number of presenters, there were a few that I had to miss but I am confident that they would have been as exceptional as the ones I did get to attend.
3. Awesome receptions. Luckily I got to go to two awesome receptions – 1) Center for Laos Studies Reception and 2) Conference Reception. The CLS reception was amazing because it was for an organization we are all a part of. CLS is a young organization but it has grown into such an amazing one. We also got to share with everyone during a presentation what we have done so far in the SAIL program. We also got to showcase our reading/singing skills by singing two songs that our teachers have taught us. The conference reception was just beautiful. There was a beautiful fashion show of some of the Lao ethnic clothing and then a lot of Lao dancing. The girls were absolutely beautiful and I was utterly amazed by the beauty of our culture and what we have to offer.
4. Nice accommodations/food. We stayed at the hotel the conference was held at and that made it so convenient. The breakfast was great full of choices. Don’t forget, we have been in Laos for a month and usually eating similar things day in and day out. It was a nice change of scenery.
5. The conference brought Vinya to Laos! It was so nice to see him again. I think we all made him proud with the progress we have made so far. I still feel that this is the best place to be for me as I try to learn the language again since I know that what I lack (reading and writing) can only be readily found here. We got to spend some quality time with Vinya and even introduce him to some of the people that have made the first month as wonderful as it was.
July 27, 2010
Week Six
Unlike the other SAILers, I did not go to Luang Prabang. After discussing it with my family, they thought it would be best to go with them at the end of the program. It was certainly quiet here in Vientiane without my fellow Americans. Being alone, however, gave me a chance to spend more time working on my presentation for class and hanging out with new friends that I’ve made since being here in Laos. While having dinner with one particular friend, I was reintroduced to the Xieng Mieng stories and the art of Lao riddle-telling. Let’s just say I over thought many of them and did not fully understand half of them. Some of them focused on word play, some on the vagueness or the particularity of some Lao words, some were just crude but hilarious, and some really made me think. I was one of the most interesting conversations I’ve had in Laos.
On Saturday, I visited the children again at Noi Sengsourigna’s Children’s Music and Cultural Center. They performed for myself and Phensy, a friend of mine from Milwaukee, who is visiting Laos after having attended the International Conference on Lao Studies in Khon Kaen, Thailand. They were awesome! Of course, Phensy, Todd (who was also there), and I had to sing for the children. I did not disappoint with my out of tune attempt at “Nam Song See.” I think the kids liked it. Later in the evening, I was supposed to go out but that never materialized due to an unfortunate car accident (luckily no one was injured). Since I’ve been here, I’ve personally witnessed three accidents happen, and at least 10-12 aftermaths. Vientiane has definitely changed since the last time I was here in 2000. There are so many “big cars” here now and many times carelessness and other factors have caused accidents.
Sunday, I was surprised when 2 students (and one of their sisters) from Khon Kaen University in Thailand came to visit. They were on vacation and wanted to visit Laos and well as interview a few native English speakers for a project of theirs. I was amazed by one of the girls’ willingness to speak Lao to me when only a couple weeks ago at the conference she spoke Thai and English to me. Though she transitioned to Thai now again and I to English now and again, I thought the whole day was quite educational for all of us. Ay Joi, another friend I’ve encountered along this journey, took all of us to Patuxay. The last time I climbed those stairs was 16 years ago. The whole area has changed dramatically. The view of city was beautiful! I’m sure the view will continue to change as the city grows and continues to develop.
July 25, 2010
Luang Prabang, Lao Studies Conference and the Khene
Hello all! Since my last post we Sailers have spent a week in Khon Khaen, Thailand at the 3rd International Lao Studies Conference. This was such an important event because I finally found a venue where scholars of Laos were not the minority, or the exception. To me this is what a conference is all about! My personal highlights were the panels on Lao history and 16th century religion. The one problem with the conference was… there were too many great panels at one time! But of course, this is a problem that we want.
After this we happily returned to Vientiane – it was good to be back. I returned to my second week of studying the Tham script at the National Library. I also began learning to play the Khene, a Lao instrument which is slightly similar to a European Accordion. I am learning this much slower, but I did happen to see Dr. Gregory Green drop by to show me what good study yields! Seeing him and Aachaan Tong Suey in a Khene jam session convinced me that this is great music and a great instrument.
For the weekend Toby, Phouthasack, Natalie and I went to Luang Prabang. This place is jaw-dropping gorgeous if you can avoid the back-packers. The mountains of Northern Laos cover the landscape except for the little valley in which this royal city is nestled. We only had two days, but we made the most of them, visiting the old Royal Palace (now a “museum”), Mt. Phu Si which offered a view of the entire city, and Wat Xieng Thong which is the most beautiful wat I have seen in Laos. We also found time to take a boat ride to the incredible Ting caves which house a number of Buddhist statues and shrines. All in all it was a great trip!
SAILers 2010 taking photo with the CLS Executive Director at the conference room
Instead of having classes in Vientiane, The SAILers spent 4 days in the week 5 of their SAIL program to participate in the 3rd International Conference on Laos Studies at Khon Kaen, Thailand which was held on 14th to 16th of July. This is a significant event for them and for myself as well. For us all, it’s a valuable experience having attended such great conference. Beside the group of SAILers, there were more than twenty participants from Laos going to join the conference, among them were professors from the National University of Laos (NUOL) who were invited and sponsored by the Center for Lao Studies, some interested individuals and SAILers’ friends. In fact, this conference is the gathering of scholars and academic experts in different fields of knowledge and wisdom. The participants have wide range of choice to listen to the topics they are interested in.
To me, it is a great conference I ever have attended. Thanks for the host organizers, especially the Center For Laos Studies for giving me an opportunity to experience this big event. I feel I have gained a lot of new knowledge and also have consolidated some knowledge I had previously learned about it many years ago.
I had listened to quite many topics. such as Phra Lak Phra Lam (Lao and Isan-Ramayana); Land concession and rubber plantation in the north of Laos, Land use planning; Cash economy and sexual practice in Laos community; the Role of FM Radios along the Lao-Thai border areas; Conflict Resolutions in the Mekong basin.
We came back to Laos in the same group that we had on the departure day, except for Dr. Vinya Sysamouth who went back home from Thailand directly. After the conference closing at 12.00 pm of 16th July, we were pick up at the conference venue (Charoen Thani Princess Hotel in the heart of Khon Kaen City) by a bus of Khon Kaen University which transferred us to the Friendship Bridge on Thai side, then we were pick up by a mini bus from Vientiane.
July 21, 2010
Week Five
With Dr. Vinya’s arrival, the other SAILers and I were overjoyed to see a familiar face. Though his stay in Vientiane was short, we were able to have dinner with our teachers and spend a day on the Nam Ngum River. It was fun to see a whole “other” side to Dr. Vinya, Michael, and Ryan. I wish we could’ve had music on the raft. It would’ve been that much better.
On the morning of July 13th, we were off to Khon Kaen for the 3rd International Conference on Lao Studies. We were fortunate enough to ride along with 12 prominent professors from the National University of Laos. They shared stories with us while we entertained them with our singing skills. The conference was great too. I was astounded by the different research that has been done on Laos and as Grant Evans noted, the great research yet to done. I left there thinking about the possibilities of my own research and how I could contribute.
Though we didn’t go out much in Khon Kaen, I felt like the spirit of the Lao people of Isan at the conference–in the warm smiles and hospitable gesture of the staff and volunteers. I think I should share a certain experience I had. While I was in Khon Kaen, I had the opportunity to do some shopping. I remembered that Dr. Vinya said that he refused to speak Thai in Isan. With that in mind, I spoke Lao to almost everyone I met and consequently shocked by their response in Thai. Dr. Vinya later explained to me that Thai was a formal language, whereas Lao was reserved for more intimate, personal “spaces” (perhaps a future topic of research). Overall, I was quite impressed by the quality of presentations, both receptions, and the comradery I always feel at these conferences. I can’t wait until 2013 in Wisconsin!
